Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fail. got bored and started refitting my turbo, had to take all the lines off to fit it on, put the turbo back in, new gasket, bolted up, lock tabs ready, start refitting the lines, water feed, done, water drain, done, oil feed... well yeah... turns out i cant get the oil feed on with the turbo on. fail. lol.

Looks neat Ruby :P

Got a call from AM Andrew, my dump/front pipe should be ready today :D

heslos bring mine around for me today. :D

got a pic of it the other day, looks much awesome.

:edit:

new cooler looks good ruby, how was the fitment? will have to look at ordering mine pretty soon me thinks.

and enough working on my car for now. cant get the f**king oil fitting on the block to go back on. ill attack it again after a few hours sleep i think.

Edited by scandyflick
new cooler looks good ruby, how was the fitment? will have to look at ordering mine pretty soon me thinks.

Fitment was easy. Didn't even need to remove the front bar. Took all the measurements I needed, removed old fmic and piping, make up some sturdy brackets for mounting the new fmic, slide it into place, bolt up. Check position/center ... tighten mounting bolts. Then fabricate up the pipework ... that took a while :P Still using the old silicone hoses and clamps, looking for new ones this week.

Good to know I can still weld :D No leaks, and neat welds. I pull the piping all off later this week/weekend to tidy up some of the splatter and paint it satin black. Fmic will stay polished this time :P

Because I have the type M bar now, the old fmic looked 'sad' in that gapping mouth :P The delta fin fmic suits the bar well and I was able to mount it lower than the previous fmic, allowing more flow to the cooler. :D

I'm interested in getting a dump/front pipe combo... can u PM me details of how much it cost?

cheers

-D

Pm not working for me at the moment!

$360 for the split dump and $250 for 200 cell hi flow cat. Not sure about dumps and front pipes for RB26 though.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...