Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mainframe computer in head office will only let us see a few different things...i can go on carpoint.com.au ...but not carsales.com.au...

http://www.bypassthat.com/ :banana:

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DOHMAR

sex: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...an-t270578.html

my missus wants to give beyonce a good going over

im not sure whether to be happy for you or worried.

ok so Nat Bass isn't the best out there, but would you kick this out of bed:

RalphMagazine001.jpg

i wouldnt :banana:

Yep, what Vu said.

Note that bigger injectors and cams will not help the stock turbo necessarily make more power, as at over 200rwkw it is well out of its efficiency range. Also note that unless you are lucky, a stock turbo will not last massively long at 12psi. If I were were you I would skip the stocker, as a HKS 25/30 like mine can be had for around $1,500, and the Garrett version even cheaper (makes slightly less power though).

Also, yes you would need bigger cams and injectors (my injectors run at up to 96% making 230rwkw) to make 300rwkw unless you went for a stupidly big (read = laggy and unstreetable) turbo. Not sure how long your top end would last with 300rwkw, but seems to be a fair few people doing it around Aus.

i got 186kw when willal got there mainline dyno and i had 3" turbo back exhaust, fmic, power fc, fuel pump and boost was 13.8 psi so go figure! same as my mechanics r34 gtt he got 191kw!

with a few mods i am making 211rwkw on 12psi but ur right Son as my stock turbo is running out off puff towards the redline......but really happy down low which is very good streetable power.....but just dont know how long that the stock turbo will last....it has been running 12 psi for about 1 year now and still going strong so looking ok atm.....and my dyno figures are from Graham West Dyno's

ok so Nat Bass isn't the best out there, but would you kick this out of bed:

i wouldnt :banana:

I would. I hate it when people have a wonky eye, esp on chicks. Makes me wanna slap em and say "WTF are u looking at?"

Oh and I think shes got less talent than a 3 kilogram bag of horse shit. At least the horse shit can fertilize the garden, all she does is rip of lyrics from other musicians and spends half of her songs talking because she can't sing for shit....

Yeah I'm mean, so what...

-D

How much power are you looking for Cara? 300?

just wanting to know what the max would be for stock engine before i would have to do internals, the 500rwkw will be a while before that happens, and cause my car isnt a daily anymore, i guess 250-300 would be a nice "starting point" even tho i would start off stock and go from there....i know it prob sounds weird but i would rather learn from having a stock engine and going from there really.

i mean is it worth getting this ebc thing? and what the hell is a bleed valve lol

just wanting to know what the max would be for stock engine before i would have to do internals, the 500rwkw will be a while before that happens, and cause my car isnt a daily anymore, i guess 250-300 would be a nice "starting point" even tho i would start off stock and go from there....i know it prob sounds weird but i would rather learn from having a stock engine and going from there really.

i mean is it worth getting this ebc thing? and what the hell is a bleed valve lol

lol Cara. EBC = Electronic Boost Controller, recommended for the power your aiming at making, forget a bleed valve for your goals. Greddy Profec B Spec II is popular and not that expensive.

If you plan to go big, do it in one go, dont buy and test turbo's etc, will be too costly. Research examples of det Neo's makign the sort of power your looking at. Why not buy a RB25/30 from R.I.P.S?

Taken from http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html:

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

beyonce0309.jpg

Happy B'day Dohmar :banana:

i find her voice extremely annoying at the moment,.

and yes happy birthday ben!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :laugh::laugh:

lol Cara. EBC = Electronic Boost Controller, recommended for the power your aiming at making, forget a bleed valve for your goals. Greddy Profec B Spec II is popular and not that expensive.

If you plan to go big, do it in one go, dont buy and test turbo's etc, will be too costly. Research examples of det Neo's makign the sort of power your looking at. Why not buy a RB25/30 from R.I.P.S?

Taken from http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html:

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

i wish i could damo, but the engine alone is gonna cost nearly $13,000 to do.............and im a long way off from getting that sort of money atm.

the thing is, i could get to 300rwkw and be happy with that. its hard to say until im there. just one of those things really i wont know until im there, dont get me wrong, id still love to get to 500rwkw, but at the moment its gonna be a while before that happens :D

Edited by MissR34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...