Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know why people say that a RB25 with a RB26 crank/rods will make a RB27 because it won't.

RB25/26/30's all have the same bore 86mm so the only difference between the engines is the stroke. So guess what, if you fit a RB26 cranks in a RB25 you end up with an RB26 because the bore and stroke is the same as an RB26.

I believe to make a RB27 out of a RB25 you also need to do a 2mm bore as well so you get the extra displacement. I am not too sure, as finding info on this is near impossible for me, whenever i really search its pretty much about the Jun or Tomei stoker kits.

Your car is hot.

Cheers mate :(

yeah ive been in a 300rwkw car and loved every minute of it. was an amazing feeling :)

nice plates btw :)

Good stuff, i just wanted to know if you knew what sort of power you would be getting yourself into. Even 300kw in a rwd car is wheel spin city, 500rwkw would just be pointless i recon.

I don't know why people say that a RB25 with a RB26 crank/rods will make a RB27 because it won't.

RB25/26/30's all have the same bore 86mm so the only difference between the engines is the stroke. So guess what, if you fit a RB26 cranks in a RB25 you end up with an RB26 because the bore and stroke is the same as an RB26.

wrong the stroke has to be longer since the bore is the same its the only way to change the capacity

Why don't you do what a bloke in the States did with TE27 and fit a 1UZ-fe, I'd say that you'd be the only person in Australia with a V8 keto. Having said that the CA would still make more power.

i believe there is another guy's that have done it

Good stuff, i just wanted to know if you knew what sort of power you would be getting yourself into. Even 300kw in a rwd car is wheel spin city, 500rwkw would just be pointless i recon.

oh yeah but even once the car is making 500rwkw will be dyno queen i think

but then i could be happy with 300rwkw

i wont know till im there really :(

wrong the stroke has to be longer since the bore is the same its the only way to change the capacity

Good to see we're on the same page because that's what i said. If you fit an RB26 crank in to a RB25 block you end up with a RB26, because the bore and stroke will then be the same as an RB26.

Edited by D_Stirls
oh yeah but even once the car is making 500rwkw will be dyno queen i think

but then i could be happy with 300rwkw

i wont know till im there really :(

If i was to built a dyno car it would have to make 1000hp minimum.

problem is, 500rwk from a 2.5 litre (turbo) will be totally gutless on the street and a stock standard RB25 will blow you away at the lights

It'll be an absolute pig to drive around town and will be gutless up until 5000rpm........from there it's wheel spin city all the way to 9000rpm and lots of broken bits to sweep up behind you unfortunately

it would be RB25/30

and ive been told that having the RB30 bottom end will help a lot with torque?

The way in which you will have to set up your head to get 1000rwhp means that you will lose all of the bottom end torque that you will have gained by fitting a 3 litre. having said that you will have more than a 2.5 litre.

I think you need to have a good look at what you want from this build and then going for broke because you can't have your cake and eat it too. If you want low down torque go back to looking at a Supercharger as there are S/Chargers that will make 1000hp. Or better yet look at fitting a VH45DE with a charger or twin turbos.

Either way once you start you'd better have some money behind you because building a 1000hp engine won't give you much if any change out of $40,000.

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...