Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have been thinking of upgrading my radiator in the near future and i noticed some of them dont have the holes to put the stock radiator shroud back on. It got me thinking, is it really needed? Or is it just to stop noobs from putting their hands and who knows what other body parts into the fan while the engine is on?

Does it have much to do with airflow? or can the car live without it?

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/
Share on other sites

keep it - the thermo fan drags air through the radiator, guided by the shroud.

if the shroud isn't there, it still draws some air through the radiator, bt alot of energy just moves air around the engine bay.

ie. it's there to help airflow efficiency through the radiator

it's primarily for low speed stuff where there isn't enough air going through on it's own.

i've heard stories of cars that will overheat without the shroud, all things remaining equal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399143
Share on other sites

Well sure it might help the radiator from not letting the air go where ever it likes, but how much difference can it make? 2-8 degrees in temp? more? Having a larger radiator that does not support the stock shroud, wouldtnt that make it cooler anyway?

Hmm..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399232
Share on other sites

I have tested this theory a while back,. with and without shroud I noticed over a 10% difference in engine temp. The same would be said with thermos as they rely even moreso on the shroud drawing the cooler air onto the engine.

Just take a look at some Race prepped skylines. You will notice custom shrouds made up in front to help guide the air. This isnt there for show.You will also have a few extra hp with it than without it.

Although its totally up to you, and The car may live without it, but your fan will loose much of its cooling efficiency.

Edited by silverbulletR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399828
Share on other sites

My old radiator had a small leak in the top plastic tank. Replaced it with an aftermarket all alluminium one but the shroud didnt fit. Havent had any heating issues so far even now that we're into summer. This radiator does seem to cool a lot better than the stock one though, so im guessing the ~5-10 degrees im losing for not having a shroud is being made up by the better radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...