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Car Stalls After Booting It

cjpwrx

By cjpwrx,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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cjpwrx Rising Star

cjpwrx

Posted
Posted

Hey guyz i brought a 96 stock R33 S2 a while ago was running fine untill recently i got fitted a full exhaust turbo back, pod filter, and FMIC.

The problem is when i accelerate hard and then pull the foot on the clutch the revs drop way under normal and more often than not will stall. I got no idea what it could be there are no leaks in the piping for the cooler i checked the AAC valve which was fine, im not running a aftermarket cpu just the standard one.

Please let me know what u think it could be?

Cheers

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DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted
Standard BOV we even blocked it complete just in case it was leaking but still the same.

90% certain that is your problem right there...

If your car flutters, then you are going to have stalling issues with starving the engine of oxygen...

fulli sick flutters / stalling now and then

weigh it up... sup to you...

could be wrong though :happy:

shajar Enthusiast

shajar

Posted
Posted

HHhhmmmm interesting....

I'm in a very similar situation, recently bought my 96 SII GTS-T and the guy I bought it off said it stalls every now and then, I thought I could resolve it fairly easily (not so far) just after he put on a new MonstaA FMIC and some crappy yummcha copy GReddy RS type BOV.

I have also checked and replaced any suspect looking vacume hoses, I have the nipple on intercooler pipe, replumbed the 3-piece multi-tapped vacume pipe to Boost guage, cleaned AFM and ACC valve. Tried blocking the BOV off all-together aswell, so it's not that, though I'm leaning towards getting the dual Plumb-back/Venting type BOV just to be sure, though finding it hard to part with the $400 asking price just to see if it improves things.

All this stopped the "fullon stalling" for about 1 week, then it started again not as badly though, then after a while it stopped stalling and started hunting, which is slightly better than restarting the car at the lights, though I feel like a tool as it's revving up and down trying to find idle properly.

So this is where I'm at, I just picked up a SAFCII to see if I could see and log what was actually happening + they are good for improving fuel economy and sqeezing every last bit out of your engine configuration (once it's fully dyno tuned). But am having issues with getting the SAFCII to run at all with my car read my other posts....

I'm now asking anyone who may be able to lend me a copy of Datascan software, if so I will probably buy a consult cable and see if I can find it that way.

shajar Enthusiast

shajar

Posted
Posted

Hey not sure if you have read this thread all the way through, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t110431.html

I have only done the first part myself, cleaning the AAC valve and adjusting the idle screw via the AAC valve but I might try the electronic Idle control via the ECU aswell just to be sure, can't hurt.

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