Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz i brought a 96 stock R33 S2 a while ago was running fine untill recently i got fitted a full exhaust turbo back, pod filter, and FMIC.

The problem is when i accelerate hard and then pull the foot on the clutch the revs drop way under normal and more often than not will stall. I got no idea what it could be there are no leaks in the piping for the cooler i checked the AAC valve which was fine, im not running a aftermarket cpu just the standard one.

Please let me know what u think it could be?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188545-car-stalls-after-booting-it/
Share on other sites

Standard BOV we even blocked it complete just in case it was leaking but still the same.

90% certain that is your problem right there...

If your car flutters, then you are going to have stalling issues with starving the engine of oxygen...

fulli sick flutters / stalling now and then

weigh it up... sup to you...

could be wrong though :happy:

HHhhmmmm interesting....

I'm in a very similar situation, recently bought my 96 SII GTS-T and the guy I bought it off said it stalls every now and then, I thought I could resolve it fairly easily (not so far) just after he put on a new MonstaA FMIC and some crappy yummcha copy GReddy RS type BOV.

I have also checked and replaced any suspect looking vacume hoses, I have the nipple on intercooler pipe, replumbed the 3-piece multi-tapped vacume pipe to Boost guage, cleaned AFM and ACC valve. Tried blocking the BOV off all-together aswell, so it's not that, though I'm leaning towards getting the dual Plumb-back/Venting type BOV just to be sure, though finding it hard to part with the $400 asking price just to see if it improves things.

All this stopped the "fullon stalling" for about 1 week, then it started again not as badly though, then after a while it stopped stalling and started hunting, which is slightly better than restarting the car at the lights, though I feel like a tool as it's revving up and down trying to find idle properly.

So this is where I'm at, I just picked up a SAFCII to see if I could see and log what was actually happening + they are good for improving fuel economy and sqeezing every last bit out of your engine configuration (once it's fully dyno tuned). But am having issues with getting the SAFCII to run at all with my car read my other posts....

I'm now asking anyone who may be able to lend me a copy of Datascan software, if so I will probably buy a consult cable and see if I can find it that way.

Hey not sure if you have read this thread all the way through, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t110431.html

I have only done the first part myself, cleaning the AAC valve and adjusting the idle screw via the AAC valve but I might try the electronic Idle control via the ECU aswell just to be sure, can't hurt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...