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Hey Richard, try PMing Brad (RDIRTY3). He works at WA Suspensions and I know he has installed a few of the SK kits for a few SAU members, so he may be able to shed some light for you.

Looking good mate.

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My stuff arrived yesterday. Looks very bling. The threaded sleeve looks long enough to make installing the groove relatively easy. Doesn't much matter if it is +/-10mm in either direction.

Couple points/questions from the first set of photos:

1. Where is your lock ring?

2. If your spring isn't trapped you probably need a helper.

Oh and does anyone know where to get the spanners from?

Mine have allen key type grub screws instead of an extra (locking) nut

Actually means with the weight off the wheels I can adjust without spanners, though they can be had from most decent tool suppliers pretty cheap anyway

Interesting to here other dont have the same drama with front springs being untrapped at full droop though and with the helpers my rears are totally trapped no drama at all??? Are you measuring the helpers without any load on will measure mine up an when I get back into town an let u know how long they are if it helps.

Can you tell fron the part numbers on the springs the rate ????

Mine have allen key type grub screws instead of an extra (locking) nut

Actually means with the weight off the wheels I can adjust without spanners, though they can be had from most decent tool suppliers pretty cheap anyway

Interesting to here other dont have the same drama with front springs being untrapped at full droop though and with the helpers my rears are totally trapped no drama at all??? Are you measuring the helpers without any load on will measure mine up an when I get back into town an let u know how long they are if it helps.

Can you tell fron the part numbers on the springs the rate ????

The springs have the rate written on them. You will see 0800.250.0225 which is in order coil diameter, coil length & coil rate in lb/in. The fronts are 275lb/in.

As for trapping oddly Eibach don't seem fussed by the last quarter inch or so. Check their website for install tips. Strangly they reckon you get less noise with a small gap. Personally I don't like that idea much, but that is just me.

I ordered a couple spanners from Perth.

The springs have the rate written on them. You will see 0800.250.0225 which is in order coil diameter, coil length & coil rate in lb/in. The fronts are 275lb/in.

As for trapping oddly Eibach don't seem fussed by the last quarter inch or so. Check their website for install tips. Strangly they reckon you get less noise with a small gap. Personally I don't like that idea much, but that is just me.

I ordered a couple spanners from Perth.

not sure what's going on with my set up. djr can you please post your shock p/n if it's easy to do? i've got the Bilsteins and coilover conversion from SK. front springs are 1000.250.0275 so same spring but larger diam. i've got the same set up as noone ie using the top coilover adapter under the stock hat as per his pics. with the height adjustment all the way down i've got 390mm hub to guard at the front, and 80mm between the bottom of the bump stop and the top of the damper body. if i machine another groove 40mm down the shock that leaves me with 40mm travel. if i need a helper that's 20mm thick compressed that means the groove needs to be 60mm down the shock body so 20 travel left. hmmm....

is there something i'm not seeing?

Sorry but I made a bit of a blue. The first number is the wire length, ie the length of the bit of wire the spring was made out of .

Part numbers are

Front B46 1471

Rear F4 - B46 1472

According to the brochure anyway -

http://quadrantsuspensions.com.au/pdf/Bilstein%20B6.pdf

thanks, thought that might have been the case as the spring in noone's pics looks shorter, and according to the Eibach cattledog his and yours are 203mm and mine are 254 mm length. shock part number are same as mine.

either way it still means that there's going to be bugger all travel between the bottom of the bump stop and the top of the shock whether i get the ride height down by using a shorter spring or machining another groove.

unless i'm missing something...

what ride height hub to guard does that give, and how much clearance is there between the bump stop and the shock body when the car is on it's wheels? i suspect there's no problem with stock type springs.

Ride height was about 350 to 355 (can't remember when the photo was taken.)

I don't remember what the travel remaining on the damper was, sorry although you definately do need to trim the bump stop otherwise it is completely inadequate.

The Eibach were installed yesterday. The front did not need any extra grooves, but the rear did.

Edited by djr81
Ride height was about 350 to 355 (can't remember when the photo was taken.)

I don't remember what the travel remaining on the damper was, sorry although you definately do need to trim the bump stop otherwise it is completely inadequate.

The Eibach were installed yesterday. The front did not need any extra grooves, but the rear did.

Good to hear.

Do have to ask - opinion of final set up?

Good to hear.

Do have to ask - opinion of final set up?

Relative to the Whiteline springs I have to say I prefer them. There is noticeably less spring travel over bumps but to be honest you tend to notice this less than you notice the lessening of the damping rate relative to the spring rate. All up the cars a more comfortable although you notice the larger bumps more as you would expect.

I have yet to try it on the track, but that is the weekend (4th November) after next so I guess I will find out soon enough.

There is a query left over from one of Scooby's posts about the amount of travel remaining between the damper & the bump stop - particularly at the front (Bump stops trimmed). Do you know how much that is?

  • 2 weeks later...
^^^ Around an extra $1000 for the springs and coilover conversion kit (threaded sleave, lower spring seats and upper spring seat adapter).

Thanks salad, would i need to send my shocks off to be revalved?

Where can i read more about this option, as im thinking something a little more track orientated but dont want to let go of my bilsteins :worship:

I got my conversion kit when I bought the shocks, so I had them revalved at the time. Gary (SK) told me it was the better idea and revalving was not much extra, so I had it done.

I dont think that djr81 had them done though? The difference may not be huge, guess it depends on how high you're going with your spring rates.

Only place I know of finding out more info about them is talking to Gary himself, or possibly PM "Jonosx" on Nissansilvia.com. I know PMing a guy on NS.com for useful information sounds pretty damn stupid, but the guy works at Bilstein and he builds the shocks, so can shed some light on the whole thing.

I got my conversion kit when I bought the shocks, so I had them revalved at the time. Gary (SK) told me it was the better idea and revalving was not much extra, so I had it done.

I dont think that djr81 had them done though? The difference may not be huge, guess it depends on how high you're going with your spring rates.

Only place I know of finding out more info about them is talking to Gary himself, or possibly PM "Jonosx" on Nissansilvia.com. I know PMing a guy on NS.com for useful information sounds pretty damn stupid, but the guy works at Bilstein and he builds the shocks, so can shed some light on the whole thing.

Whether or not you get the Bilsteins revalved depends on the spring rates you want to run. I got them done when I first bought them, ie when running the Whilteline springs. I didn't get them re done when I changed to the Eibach springs, however had I gone for a higher rate they would have need looking at.

If you are spenging the kind of money to get good springs & dampers it makes sense to get the right damping rate. Otherwise you are just wasting your money.

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