Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My clutch is slipping, not when u engage the clutch but mainly from 2500rpm onwards.

Can anyone recommend a clutch to use and how much approx ?

(Genuine Nissan or other clutches)

Who do u recommend to do the installation?

Has anyone tried to take the gearbox out yourself if u have your car on jack stands ? (or do u need hoist)

Or leave it to the professionals ?

Immigrant performace at Labrador, Gold Coast quoted $930 for clutch and installation.

But Dane said the clutch they use is a heavy duty performace one they have designed themselves which can take 3000 pounds of torque.

Anyone have any experiences with this guy?

Mine Fried on Tuesday...Speak to Gavin Woods. He knows his stuff. Prices seem reasonable for Clutches. He has a couple of different options. Mine will cost me about 900ish installed for a Daikin (his recommendation)...

Call 07 5529 2313

As soon as I come up with the cash I'll be going in to get it fixed...

Michael

i got a heavy duty daikin put into my r33 gts-t with flywheel spin, gearbox oil etc. etc. etc. for a total of $560 ... by ABS brake and clutch in Slacks Creek they r awesome. But i did bargain ALOT with them ... but they r good blokes, So yeah if u wanna go to them, tell them Bryan with the vandalise skyline recommended u ... and they'll do u good deals.

HEY!

This is an question that needs to be answered urgently.

I've been told that Nissan patrol clutch bolts up to my skyline by one guy (with 2300lb pressure plate) however another place told me that, that set up means that the plate engages really close to the floor.

Those of you who have this set up (including bryanlee and swordfish) is that correct? And if so how different to normal (is it engaged 1 cm off the floor with the rest of the pedal a waste)??

PLEASE HELP!

4 Doorz,

Now the Nissan Patrol Clutch is the same as any other new clutch.

If it's new then yes it will release early on the clutch.

My clutch is release about 2-3 cm off the floor.

Its not a hard clutch either.

My girlfriend drove it around one day and she didn't notice the difference.

I do recommend u speak to Geoff at Slacks Creek and Gavin Wood at Labrador.

He will tell u also...no different.

If u come to the skyline cruise on Sat I will be there and if u want u check the clutch out.

Not too brag or anything,

but I showed Gavin Wood at Labrador this Exedy Nissan Patrol Clutch from Slacks Creek.

So he knows all about and he fitted it on my car.

Tell him Gossy with the silver Skyline Gtst had u fit it.

I was quoted $572 fot a more stanhdard H.Duty Daikin, and $644 for an uber h.duty Daikin (SKR) that would be more suitable for my use...These prices are WAY over what you guys are posting. Why?

Thanks dood. I just skim sometimes, and so miss a bit. The prices I got were from Gavin Woods, but I'll dig and see what's available. I don't really understand the difference between clutches, compounds etc, so I'll end up getting taken for a ride :P

Seriously ALL OF U WHO wants to get NEW CLUTCHES - go to 'ABS brake and CLutches' talk to brett, he's awesome. I did bargain a bit but mine cost a total of $560 - EXEDY HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH INSTALLED (includes machine flywheel, gear box oil etc.) THey did a fabulous job, clutch feels awesome, AND IT COMES WITH 12 MONTHS WARRANTY.

BEWARE!!! MOst places if u buy a clutch and bring it to ANOTHER workshop to fit, they cannot guarantee the clutch, because they did not personally order the product. I was gonna do that, but ABS BRAKE AND CLUTCH match that price of me buying the clutch and getting it fitted. Better off now u can get that warranty

the clutch I'm using now feels great. its a tad shorter and heavier then the stock r33 gts-t one i had. CLoser to the ground thats about it. So far I've only stalled it once this week :D BUT ITs AWESOMe

ABS BRAKE AND CLUTCH = SAY BRYAN - WITH THE VANDALISE MAROON SKYLINE. and Brent (or brett) I cant really remember, he's the guy who will fix u up with an awesome PRICE. U may have to pay few dollars more, because i did bargain the hell outta him, and showed him my vandalise skyline kekekek. GO THE SAD STORY APPROACH!

cheers

bryanlee38

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...