Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, before i get a auto electrician to have a look, any advice on how i could keep why light not working?

I have already changed the bulb, even used the left side bulb to make sure its not just a dead bulb. also i noticed the high beam not working also, so im sure something work with that side..... Parker light still working....

Anyway just some advice guys and if i cant fix it, please give me a name of a auto electrician or someone that can fit it for me.

thanks guys

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189299-driver-side-head-light-not-working/
Share on other sites

hey dude, I'm writing a tut on one of the many ways to fix this problem at the moment buts its not finished yet. its pretty simple so don't pay an auto-lecy money for a job you can do yourself.

i found the problem to be in two places, firstly the roller switch which operates the parkers and the standard beam lights (SB) and then further a issue with the contacts on the back of the mech that controls the High beam (HB) on/off and the pass function.

sometimes on the roller switch the the little heads that push the contacts up and down either snap off or become worn with age which means they don't push the contacts together enough to turn the light on (both lights have individual contacts). i pulled the roller switch apart and cleaned it up and fixed a broken head by making one out of Areldite (spelling?) which fixed the lights for a good while but just last night the problem came back.

this time i traced the problem back to the HB control in the steering column, its really easy to pull out takes 10mins its only three screws. on the back of the mech there is five contacts on the far right side are the contacts which control the SB on and off, the far right one is for the Passenger side beam and the next one on the left controls the driver side SB. try turning on the ignition to ACC and then push the contacts down this should turn the light on and pulling them up will turn the light off.

this is as far as i got today because i got to go to work/uni but when i finish i will post up a photo filled solution to this common/annoying problem.

NB: for a quick fix, flick your high beam controller to pass a few times and see if is enough to make better contact as its only a crappy plastic mech which lifts and depress the contact that would wear with age for sure.

NBB: if the contact gets hot after a few mins of playing around it means its not contacting proper and cause resistance which makes it get hot

NBBB: everyone should own a Multimeter they are worth every penny

there is some fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and there are some larger fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay. i own a 32 so they maybe in slightly different spots and positions. my fuse box cover has a diagram which shows whats where but its in Jap so i can only make out the H/B.

is yours in English by any chance?

also what would you like a pic of exactly? i got heaps haha

hey mate!

ok i would really like to check if the fuse is blown so here is a quick pic i took of the fuse box in the engine bay. im guessing the fuse for the lights r here but which one i got no idea!

One mate said he thinks its one of the small ones on the right side of the big blue one on the far left bottom corner... there r 4 small ones 2 red (which have the number 10 on them) and 2 blue (number 15 on them).....

will get a better pic later if needed

post-27605-1192544427_thumb.jpg

Edited by steveyea

not sure exactly which is which but there is a fuse for each light, get a pair of needle nose pillars, or something of that nature and pull them out, they should just pull straight up, try not to bend them from side to side if you can.

if the fuse is popped it will look substantially different to the other ones. pull all four out one at a time have a look at it, put it back in if they are all ok then the problem is more likely to be at the next junction in chain towards the cockpit, either a switch or a fuse are the typical weak points.

if the fuse is popped, you can get replacement ones from Supercheap/Repco/Autobarn all those good places. the number on the top indicates the AMPerage of the fuse, if a 10 is busted you need to put a 10 back in that spot.

keep us posted!

  • 6 months later...

hey guys im having a similar problem and its my fog lights driver side isnt working

i wanna know where the fuse is for it i looked in the boot dosent have say for fog and i cant read jap

under the dash of the steering wheel so it might be dere and the one in the engine bay dosent say fod ligts but i tried the right hand head light but i dont think that connects to the fog light dose any one know which fuse is for the fog light cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...