Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

IF someone who has acctuallt installed these onto their RB25DE gives me a run down on how it improved their responce.. Ill be in too

i cant give a definite answer as i did my extractors and full exhaust at the same time.

first instance was a fatter mid-range, VVL/VCT was much more notice-able, top end revs right out till ~6500/6800'ish. revving and delivery was sharp and smooth.

note: i also did get an SAFC2 at the same time and got a fair bit leaned out.

skimming through the thread there seems to be about 6 people interested.

blk_sz (Beau)

inthisglass (Karlos)

GTS4WD (Cris)

cam_R33 (Cameron)

R33 Ribby (Kane)

MicR33 (?)

if everyone sticks with it, i will run the group buy. we really need the numbers to make this work, i won't advertise this elsewhere to make up the numbers required like last time due to people pulling out. so if you are unsure, say so now.

i've sent emails out to partsco and the hp coaters. i'll advise back on prices.

as a rough timeline, we're looking at:

late jan - names & deposit

early feb - orders placed and transfer of money

Hi guys,

I contacted Partsco, cause i need extractors asap, and on there site they were $206 and comes with red factory high temp paint that coby use, is this good enough cause they did tell me about True HPC ceramic coating is usually a

dull silver colour and would cost around $200 to do a set of Coby D12's.

Would this be better or just the standard high temp paint they use would be fine, cause $200 is quite a bit.

they said: You are looking at around $70 to air freight the D12's to Aust and you would

need to allow 3-10 days (as quoted by NZ Post).

Sounds quick?

well i kno im definately in for extractors but duno bout this coating stuff ..does it make a difference for an extra $200??

but yeah i was quoted coby d12 extractors $288 + shipping $80 to be delivered to Melb.

A Lot of people are not wanting the hpc coating, im not sure if its the money issue of getting them coated or if its just the fact that no one knows what the coating actually achieves.

If i know what it does and if its benificial enough ill go for the coating..

also, im getting a new catback made up in 2.5 inch mandrel bent stainless steel. (custom made by kirmit on these forums) Will the coby extractors be the same length as the original headers? or should i wait till i get the extractors then fit the new catback as the extractors might alter the length of the rest of the pipe?

im pretty sure the extractors should just fit straight in but just want to make sure i wont have to get the catback modified.

oh and im still definately in for the group by :D

cheers

Karl

google "HPC" or "HP coating", it's basically a thermal coating to maintain temps.

i'm not entirely sure if you will notice any significant difference between a car with/without hp coating. however keeping the heat out of the engine bay is enough to sell me - it is odd that they cost just as much as the extractors themselves but the coating is contracted out.

in regards to getting an exhaust, i'd wait for the headers - they don't come with flanges so it depends on what diameter you're after to weld them on.

that said i had no dramas welding my headers onto my full exhaust system, any exhaust shop can cut to suit.

ok cool, is heat wrapping cheaper? If so may as well just get the extractors wrapped in stead of coated..

so your saying we should get the extractors fitted, cut to size if nessesary and have flanges welded on then have the cat and cat-back made up.

either way im still looking forward to the day i get mine :)

it's not really such a big deal as everyone makes it out to be. the headers will end at the same place as the standard front pipe.

the headers come 2.25" standard, i will try to arrange a choice between 2.25" or 2.50" outlets again (was free of charge prior).

heat wrapping or hp coating either way is fine, they will work if you don't wrap them too.

i still haven't received a response yet (not really expecting one too soon due to holidays).

will keep you guys posted.

when'd you get an NA dale?

hey dude how r u :)

Pacemaker make really good Extractors guys, Not sure if they make for RB engines though. I noticed a world of difference when using them on my old NA car.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Eug put me out on this one as i need mine asap, i have ordered a set with gakset and hpc, and yes they did say it has gone up, i was unhappy but still gonna pay for it, think it will be well worth it in the end, thanks anyway

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...