Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont touch nankangs...!!!!

if on a budget go falkens... i got some bridgestone RE001 adrenalins and have been impressed so far(done some hard drives), and the compound gets softer as it wears down so they will grip better for longer. Highly reccommend trackside tires in bayswater if you are in VIC...

-Ryan

jesus.

will all of you stop talking about a whole brand based on your experience with a single tyre?

which is quicker, a BMW or a Nissan? 318 or GTR? M8 or tiida?

Every brand of tyres has a range of tyres at different price points. And generally the second tier brands will have similar performing tyres at similar prices - and they will be cheaper than the equivalent tyre from a big name brand.

I'm running Nankang 245x40x18's on mine.... no issues whatsoever. Have run them on the strip and track, no real grip problems, can't get wheelspin, but they do start to squeel when taking bends at about 80km/h + (what woudn't with std suspension). For the money I think that they are really good. Paid $165 each at compliance. I also find that they are wearing ok. Done nearly 15,000km no noticable wear.

Edited by Appealing
have the choice of 2 tyre brands for my car at same price... what are your thoughts on both brands

This is like asking someone to choose between a Giant Douche and a Turd Sandwich....

at least 2 members in melb with stageas (me being one) have had this happen, both on the same tyre, and same side at the rear.

did you have enough tyre pressure? and any sharp object poking the tyre? As i know Nankang isa pretty good tyre.

Probably should try Maxxis tyre the Z1

my thoughts are no two cars will ever wear a tyre the same. you have things like ride hights/toe/camber/caster and if you have coil overs is your car corner wieghted right .all depends on your set up no ones wheelalignments are the same,both me and my mate bought nexin tyres and mine chopps them out more then his.

its just how the set up is and how you like it set up. hope this helps.

did you have enough tyre pressure? and any sharp object poking the tyre? As i know Nankang isa pretty good tyre.

Yup ... tyre pressure was fine.

and no sharp objects. I'm pretty sure l posted up a pic of it on here, but according to tyre shop they've seen a few nankangs have the exact same problem, and not just on stagea's.

I'm not ready to buy Korean made tyres yet, I am sure they will improve in time.

My car arrived with German made tyres on it and they were actually really crap! Noisy and worn out (from about 75% tred) to un-roadworthy in 10 thousand Km... I currently like Japanese tyres and toyo in particular. I understand what Duncan is saying and I don't go through a lot of tyres so I can't say I have tried everything. I have had cheap tyres in the past and they have worn well to a point and then lost the plot and gone out of shape or something stupid!

I think of tyres as an important safety feature, so I am not deterred from spending a few extra dollars even if I am miss guided and deluded, it makes me feel better at least!

have the choice of 2 tyre brands for my car at same price... what are your thoughts on both brands

Another thing to consider is that tyres are THE ONLY CONTACT your car has with the road, so even if you have the best suspension, steering, brakes and drive-line combination you could possibly achieve, then it all turns to sh!t if you have ordinary tyres on the car.

If you can afford to spend a bit more, it may well save your life one day, so it's a worthwhile investment. And don't bother comparing brand against brand, it's more "accurate" (I can't think of a better way to describe it right now, but...) to compare TYRE against TYRE.

An example: Falken make two tyres which are at opposite ends of what they may consider "performance" tyres - their Ziex range is total crap (I know this from experience), yet their Azenis range has received lots of praise, and is one of the tyres I'll be considering when I update. Duncan himself swears by them.

An example: Falken make two tyres which are at opposite ends of what they may consider "performance" tyres - their Ziex range is total crap (I know this from experience)

werd

i'm ashamed to say i had 'em fitted to a GT-R :D

This is like asking someone to choose between a Giant Douche and a Turd Sandwich....

The Federal 595SS are not a bad tyre. I've beaten a few high place Dutton competitors in a road rally using 595SS on a relatively standard R32 GTR (only mods were coilovers, exhaust, pods, and Mines ECU) while they were on semi slicks. Don't get me wrong - they're nowhere near semi slick performance, nor are they the best street tyre out there, but they are a long way from being rubbish!

I've had 2 sets of them and wouldn't hesitate to buy them again.

I've used falken 326 (on the gtst at compliance) fk451 (on the gtst, 350 and stagea) and their slick (or the race car last weekend) I can guarantee there is a range of performance in a single brand lol.

the fk451s were good for a 1.57 around Eastern Creek in a stock gtst (160rwkw). The slicks 1.50 with a 240awkw gtr. The 326? only good for killing yourself in the wet.

I've got the federal 595SS on the front of the Z and they are great for the price, but the 451s on the rear are better.

On my Stagea I have used the following (I ranked them best to worst)

Michelin Pilot Preceda - $1100 a set

Kuhmo ECSTA SPT's - $800 a set

Hankook K104 ($650) / Federal SS595 ($550)

*insert very big gap in performance here*

Nankang NS2's ($free)

Nankang 505's (or something) ($came with car)

Wanli something ($borrowed)

Hills runs on all of them. Lots of driving. I never got more than 10,000km out a set of tyres (so, I really do test em :()

Nankangs were not TERRIBLE in dry, but wet was SHIT. The WANLI's, well, if it was raining and I stalled it up and launched, I would 4wd spin all through first. None of the others would do more than chirp the fronts.

I am going to be buying Kuhmo's this time (yep, new tyre time now)

The lower end of scale - best life - cheapest price - worst performance. Top end of scale - worst life - most expensive - best performance......this is the irony of tyres ey?

I us Federals all the time

Stag uses 215/40/18s on 18x9 all around

Cedric uses 225/35/19 on a 9j and 235/35/19 on a 10j

After tons of camber, tons of KM, no problems

they grip well, are easy to mount even with huge Stretches that i do.

i can fully reccomend federals

plus i have 8 extra 18 inch tires sitting here for drifting lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...