Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are typical/expected readings or ranges for water temp, oil temp and oil pressure under 'race' conditions for an RB motor? (plus any other measurement I haven't thought of).

And what are abnormal/dangerous numbers?

I know there aren't any hard and fast rules, and some purpose built race engines will be very different, but let's say for the average road going skyline modded up to maybe an after market turbo, ECU and supporting mods.

And if you could only have 1 or 2 extra gauges on a GTST, what would they be? Obviously you need after market boost cos the stock one is inaccurate and has stufall range. I know I'd like a water/coolant temp at the very least. What else is good to have?

Im guessing standard radiator? and determine what race? Drag strip, or track? i can give water temp at 82-85 deg at the strip acording to the pfc reading. unsure on oil temp track guys may help ya there, ive heard upwards of 110, also dependant on if you have an aftermarket oil cooler. Guages that come in handy, would have to aggree on Water temp, and oil pressure maybe oil temp, boost itself is a maybe only as alot of ebc's come with there digital readout of boost pressure anyway.

hope that helps

Oh - circuit use. And with a 40mm radiator/PFC/FMIC. Not much else. I don't know about oil cooler yet, was going to go back to the track with the radiator and see how it goes with info from this thread in mind :D

Well it depends a lot, not sure about gtst, i think they run a bit cooler than GTRs.

But to give you some idea at the track I hit around 120 oil temp, if i get to about 125 i usually back off a bit to let it cool, doesn't take long to drop back to <120. As for water temps You want to keep it under 100deg. I usually sit at low 90s on the track.

When i say track, i mean the real track - not the drag strip :D

I have an oil cooler with ducting and a bigger alloy radiator and around 300kw@wheels.

More on the electric water pump please

x2! Electric... as opposed to mechanical right? Like the electric thermo fans which run directly off the battery instead of running off the engine (I think)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...