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Auto RB20 ECU on a manual?

Cool Hand Luke
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J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

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i've also changed my r32 gtst 2 a manual and am still running the auto ecu, have had no prob's in the two years its been in, you could have probs with your knock sensors, you can run your car in diagnostic mode to see if is your knock sensor, to do this u need to un bolt ur ecu from the kick panel wall so u can see the the red light and screw selector. Once u have done this switch the ignition on but dont start it, the led on the ecu will be glowing, turn the selector screw clockwise all the way gently, wait a couple of seconds , then turn the screw back counter clockwise, the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the ecu.

the LED will flash out a codeor series of codes if theres more then 1 prob, first digit will be shown by a long flash & second digit will be shown by a short flash, eg long, long, short, 21. the codes are

11 crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circut

13 coolent temp circut

14 vehicle speed sensor circut

21 ignition circuit

31 ecu

34 knock sensor

43 throttle position sensor

45 injector leak

51 ignition circut

54 auto signal to ecu

55 all ok

turn the ignition off to put the ecu bak 2 normal. so try that and see what happens.

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

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Ive been told that the auto has different ignition curves, also does it have any learning features? Sometimes within the same day but different times that i start it, it develops noticably different power. About the diagnostic, if it finds a problem, does whatever it finds need replacing, or does it just need resetting, and thats what the diagnostic does?

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

JBE,

slightly off the topic, but i recently ran this and it came up code 34 - knock sensor

what does this mean? as i have no problems with the car at the moment...

I also had the same problem with the knock sensor code 34 cumming up, firstly i checked all the plugs on the knock sensors to see if they were just loose, i found they seemed ok, so for a while i just ignored it until i happen to wind the boost up and give it heaps which resulted in it detonating. The car missed like crap and the result was i shit 1 of the spark plugs, luckily there was no futher damage, so i replaced all the spark plugs and both knock sensors, I tried running the ecu in diagnostic mode again after the new sensors were put in and the code no longer came up. So u were sayin u hav no problems yet, well would u rather be safe than sorry by spending a lil money on a new pair of sensors.

I'm only speaking from my own experience and am not a no it all, i'll try help if i can but dont know everything

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Cool Hand Luke

Ive been told that the auto has different ignition curves, also does it have any learning features? Sometimes within the same day but different times that i start it, it develops noticably different power. About the diagnostic, if it finds a problem, does whatever it finds need replacing, or does it just need resetting, and thats what the diagnostic does?

Does it seem to have more power only in the morning or does it vary

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

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It varies, so its not just an air/fuel ratio thing. Its really irritating.. sometimes i'll drive it and it will rev quite hard, and suprise me, the other times it will hit a definate flat spot when i reach to 5500rpm. Ive tried different fuel, also tried a full tank to make sure its not a pickup problem, replaced the fuel filter. I havent done the diagnostics test yet, but apart from that i can only point it to the ecu, dirty injectors or a crap fuel pump (its a vl turbo pump but should be good for 180rwkw). When i was told that it was an auto ecu, i thought the auto might have some power adaption thing that effects the power

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

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Posted

it sounds like sum sort of fuel prob or it could just be the knock sensors making the computer throw your timing right back, but for it to loose power at the same amount (5500rpm) sounds like it's starving or sumthin. Could it be your fuel pump is in correctly wired, if thats ok could also be your fuel pressure regulator or hose. I'd also check your spark plugs as this can cause your car to loose power from the gap being to wide. if the fuel pressure regulator hose has a hole or a split in it it will cause it to run lean during boost

J.B.E Apprentice

J.B.E

Posted
Posted

not sure how much the knock sensors are in Aus but i got my sensors from a friend that works at an auto parts store. They are located beneath your intake manifold there are two of them 1 is located between the second and third runner of your intake manifold (u should be able to see it if u stand where your battery is and look between the 1'st and 2'nd runner), the second is located between the 4th and 5th runners. They have whiteish plugs on them, my sensors are green i dont know if they are all green or what, but both sets that i have had were green.

Hope that helps.

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