Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright, yesterday i was driving, my car temperature went up to HOT ... right up there. Therefore I stopped and saw a little steam comin out from the engine bay, on the left where the water is. I waited and then opened my radiator valve, and it was totally dry. I didnt have any coolant on me so i just put in some hot water. My car cooled down then i eventually drove to the coast. Did about 600km's soo far, and i checked today, open the radiator valve and it was dry again! TOTALLY DRY! However car hasnt overheated, because i havent driven it since. I thought it was a leak, however there was no water on the ground. What is happenin, please help

bryanlee38

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19035-keep-overheating-arh-help/
Share on other sites

sort of tune? - newbie (i dont getcha). Car's was dyno tuned by previous owner. I've had the car for a month soo far. I've filled up my car 6 times soo far. I've used ULtime and Optimax mainly, however i did use Mobil Premium unleaded once when i was desperate as i was on very very low fuel.

running stock boost. only mods r bov, pod, TT, 3 inch cat back, THATS it. nothing big. the radiator isnt leaking, no drips on the floor. THe water/coolant is meant to keep filtering back and forth Correct? ANy chance its just evaporating? I've only done 500km's and i have to top up. It has overheated once, but after the 500km's I check and the below the valve cap was DRY. but car hasnt overheated, I've refilled it with water. But will get coolant asap.

car hard to start?

Check the entire engine over for any sign of leakage whilst you run the engine from cold till warm. At this time check that the fan is working.

If you don't see anything then check your oil for signs of milky-ness.

When cool start the engine and run with the cap off.As it warms look for bubbles and signs of fuel contamination.

Take out the plugs and check condition for signs of water, (whiteness)

the car is a little hard to start, but I'm 99% sure its the battery. I'm gettin a new one on thursday. I've checked (well look at the floor) and there's no leakage onto the floor, can it leak onto anywhere else? the fan is working fine for sure. I checked the dipstickm, looks normal, however i did get my oil change yesterday, put in castrol magnotec

WHAT do u mean run with cap off - the radiator cap? What should it look like. currently where u r meant to pour the coolant in, i just have water in there. lastly, when u say take plugs out - what plugs

sorry. I'm new to this. only had the car for a month, slowly learning.

Check your oil for water.. Does it look sorta cloudy at all? That could prove that ur headgasket is gone..

Or perhaps ur head is cracked, or your hoses leak very slowly under pressure (ie engine hot). There are many possibilites...

If the coolant definitely isn't leaking out of the radiator, pump, hoses, etc (ie not leaking onto the ground through the engine bay) then it's going into your engine, simple as that. But check all the above again, as has been said it could be a leak that only happens under pressure.

I had a similar problem on my Commodore because it had a leak around the rear water jacket gaskets. Fortunately this meant it was a fairly slow leak (lost maybe 1 litre per month) and it was going straight into the rear pistons rather than the oil and simply burning off immediately as it seeped through.

I don't know if Skylines have a similar potential water jacket gasket problem, but if they don't then it would have to be the head or head gasket.

Whatever the case, it's time to visit a mechanic.

Yepp, could be the water pump.

How many KM's has the car done?

When they are on their way out, the water can seep out of the breather on the underside of the pump.

Usually they only leak when the temps are up and it's got presure behind it.

This mean that when the water leaks out it will evaperate straight away and just turn into mist, so you won't see any water on the ground :P and you'll be scratching your head for ages trying to find where the leak is....

Take it too a radiator place like RatRad etc. They can presure test the hole system and find out if it's the head gasket or water pump etc.

Good luck

J

It sounds to me like the head gasket or a cracked head if the engine is hard to start, turns over a little slowly. Water in the bores means the compression will be significatly raised for cranking.

I might suggest that you don't try to drive the car around until you have sorted the issue ,or risk bent rods or bearing issues which will make the whole deal very expensive.

If your battery is on the way out (as mine is) every morning the radio will have lost its presets and you will find that the power windows will go slower than a wet weekend. A battery that is not holding it's charge etc is VERY obvious so I would be pointing at head issues.

The spark plugs are what I'm reffering to, if you are a newbe then it would be time to have a mechanic look at it alternatively hook up with a local skyline australia forum member or two who is technical and offer a few beers to have a look. I'm sure there are a few guys in your area.

Had the same problem with my mates R32, only had it for a couple days then suddenly started overheating, It was the water pump, was leaking like a tap. You may only have a small leak under high temperature and pressure so maybe you won't notice anything while stationary.

We managed to get a brandnew water pump for $70. So the problem was fairly easily fixed.

I had a funny thing where i started to hear a really loud screeching noise.. I could see a little bit of steam forming on the windscreen. I opened the bonnet had a look around still hearing the screeching and couldn't see anything

It turned out to be a pin hole in the top radiator hose that due to the size you couldn't even see the steam.

if you want to check it at home.... fill it up with distilled water and then run it warm. to check for external leaks (hoses etc) squeeze the radiator hose (it should maintain pressure when the engine is warm). see if you can see any radiator fluid coming from anywhere when/after you do this. i had a pin prick hole in one of the plenum radiator hoses under the inlet (couldn't see it) and lost a lot of coolant that way

other thing is that internal loss of coolant can be caused by various things but it all comes out at the end (exhaust) so see if steam coming out and could be crack in head or gasket problem. also had this prob and was corrosion hole in head

so far I've done 1000km's since that overheating problem, car has been running smooth as. temp is goin strong. Since that 1000km's back and from the gold coast. I've put 300ml's of water in the radiator cooling system. I was thinking of just putting the coolant in and just see how the car goes for now, DO U THINK THAT's WISE? Like I've done 1000km's, if something was to go wrong, it would have (wouldn't it). But like i said it currently has tap water in there, should i just put coolant in and see how it goes ??? I know i should invest in a mechanic .... I think i will actually.

Don't waste your money on the coolant until you're sure the leak is fixed. You can get by with tap water, as long as you don't get caught in a lot of heavy traffic and don't go into the snow or something (for the boiling/freezing aspect).

Water will corrode your engine faster than coolant, but in the very short time you'll be using it until you visit a mechanic the amount of corrosion will be insignificant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...