Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:turned: yay no damage under the car :w00t:

as for the hicas its going in the bin and a lock bar is going in it's place thanks sambo33 sounds like a plane

no worries, i got mine from greenline, but it looks like theres some for sale on the forums too

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t183517.html

thanks hun im about to put it on a hoist just to make sure that nothing else is damaged and ill get my mate to look at that, i was going around a bend to the left and it just went out from under me so i went to power out of it but that was the bad move i think cause that is what threw me towards the gutter what do you think i should have done?
Look, I wasn't there, but it sounds to me like you simply went round the corner too quick and lost it.

HICAS only moves +/-0.5 degrees, and as said just leaves you a bit of a "vague" feeling on the edge.

It's not VTEC yo! and doesn't go about randomly and violently kicking in under normal operation.

Sorry to hear about ur car Kellie... cable ties & gaffa tape ftw !!

my hicas is a bit knackered, just like with Cubes under hard acceleration it can apply itself, making me have to counter steer slightly to the left... and it returns under deceleration, pretty sure the rack or the rear pump is fkd. Just gotta find time to rip out all the unwanted pump and lines when i chuck in my lock bar and lose that extra 30kg :P the guides say it takes a few hours.... so im gonna allow days :rolleyes:

So let me see if i got this right, You own a R33 Turbo RB25 RWD car, You were traveling around a corner, and ur car went sideways, and gave it more stick, and u lost it into a gutter, and ur blaming hicas...

Edited by silverbulletR33

I was in a 32 awhile ago, we were driving in a straight line, I was in the back and I felt a sudden side shift, at the same time i asked Wtfwt the driver said the hicas light has come on, it has happened a few very random times before.

I ditched mine as well :)

i had a 33 gtst and another mates one too, that over 80k's the hicas went crazy. Id be correcting myslf on a straight road.

Turned out to be the little plastic disc behind the steering wheel was crooked.

So hicas does stuff up, you cant assume that a girl (kellie) does not know how to drive, and just put it down to that.

I say good on her, being out there cruising learning her car, its the only way to learn is to know your limits.

Some ppl are bagging her and i bet she could drive better than some ppl on here, at least she is out there doing it.

Thats my 2 cents

mike

I've never had an issue with my HICAS so I don't really know what it's like when it goes wild but to say that the rear wheels turning half a degree has caused you to crash is ridiculous.

No offense (well... not much anyway)

Race__24....toolmaker? fitter and turner?

hey i love that design...if it was cnc do you still have the program??? hehe.

Yeah mate, toolie by trade but working in aerospace now. I don't have the program but can write you one if you want.

i got mine off of Sherwin (NV_NO1), hes quick and is a good seller.

ive got a 180, so mine is a bit different, but im sure the symptoms of malfunctioning hicas would be similar.

before i locked my hicas it actually seemed to have a mind of its own. at low speed, as others have said, it was alright, i could still notice it, but could handle it. it wasnt until i started going 100km/h+ that it really got bad.

it was actually dangerous. the back end just felt like it had a mind of its own. slight corners would make it go nuts and all over the place, and have fun trying to turn abit sharper under speed. there was no way of knowing what it would do.

r33s have it easy when it comes to locking it, as others have mentioned it is electrical.

on s13s it is mechanical. took me a couple of hours to get the tie rod ends out, lock bar in, remove all the lines to the front, remove the actual hicas pump, and then finally run a loop from the outlet that goes to the hicas cradle to the inlet that brings it back.

then there was the hunt to find the right wire to cut to get the light to go out on the dash.

worth it though, the before and after difference is really very good. but thats coming from hicas that had a mind of its own. if it was working correctly im sure it would have served its purpose properly.

not sure bout 33's but i gots 32 that had hicas but got taken out n an S13 rear cradle got put in.

bolts straight up n is shyt load lighter,

i would recomend that to ppl if they want hicas gone in there 32 for good

Possibly a weakness with the hicas elec setup.

Mines only recently started playing up but granted I have had the car for ~6years and travelled ~181,000km's (total odo 248,000) so she's done well.

The cars still a million times better than the old VS 5ltr 5speed I bought that was near new back in 1999 with low km's. From day one the interior rattled, had alternator, inlet manifold leaks, gearbox, diff and rear IRS subframe problems. The little ol' R32 has zero rattles, still drives well, still on the same alt, power steer pump etc.

thanks to those that slaged me yeah i was going fast but you all were not on the cruise and i didnt ask for you all to be nasty so thanks :P

love all of you that were helpful and gave me some tips on how to fix/evaluate the problem :P

thanks michael for sticking up for me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...