Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

here's my ceff, Uras NS-01

17 x 9.5 +15 front, s14 LCA's, 20mm flared front

17 x 9.5 +15 rear with 25mm spacer= -10, custom flared metal guards

needs more low tho :)

post-53947-1238666699_thumb.jpg

post-53947-1238666829_thumb.jpg

technically yes, but if you imagined the spacer was apart of the wheel, the wheel would be neg 10.

Rear gaurds are pimp NICKCEFFY, haha you can see half the rear tyre pretty much.

demsA31 also looks the goods, makes me want a kit..

Cheers mate,

yeh love the big proper formed guards!!

makes me wanna do the laurel now as well, but then i've gotta get new rims for that as well!!! :cheers:

Edited by NICKCEFFY

3411412010_45fbdd1f01_b.jpg

Flushhhhhhhhh

3410600977_f8c896383d_b.jpg

Pants tighten everytime you look in the side mirror and just see the edge of the wheel chillin outside the guard.

3411414688_efc6a4ab30_b.jpg

Flushhh FAIL in the front by about 1.5cm. Didn't realise that the guard would flex so much when rolled. will need to get longer bolts and space it out or buy more Godfathers... MOAR GODFATHERS!!!1!

3410601569_01b8fdb4fb_b.jpg

3411414030_fefd61cd32_b.jpg

Fronts are 18x8.5 +35 (with a 3mm spacer to clear the strut) and rears are 18x9.5 +35 (perfect IMHO for cef)

Tyres are 215/40/18 in front and 225/40/18 in the rear, which tucks in under the rolled guard nicely, and still retains the crease line on the guard.

If I was to get another paid for the front I'd go 18x9" with a +25 or +26 offset. That would clear the strut AND space the outside of the wheel to be FLUSHHHHH with guard.

I might try R33 LCA's to try and push the track out a lil, but with the car running shocks and springs instead of coilovers, I can't have camber tops to cancel out the negative camber longer LCA's will give me :cool: Or is my theory flawed?

Hey man, wheels look good..could have gone a few mm lower, but Im a fan of low offset :devil:

Funky, yours look good too. Maybe a slightly skinnier rims with lower offset would be good, avoid having to use spacers?

Hey man, wheels look good..could have gone a few mm lower, but Im a fan of low offset :devil:

Funky, yours look good too. Maybe a slightly skinnier rims with lower offset would be good, avoid having to use spacers?

I wanted to go +25, But I couldn't find any that I liked.

(You were responding to me, right?)

Edited by DanShirts

yeah I'm gonna keep looking out for anothe rpair of godfathers in 9" with a +25 offset for the front, till i find them I'm just gonna lengthen the hub bolts and run 20mm spacers on the ones I have now to bring em out.

Cant really tell you about these rims.. Off a mates HR31, 16" 225/40 I think.. Knew the offset would be horrible, but we did it anyway! :banana:

3036_66916592850_717762850_1614745_6932323_n.jpg

Never bothered to put the suspension back in the front after Regency, as I drive it everyday. Not worth the hassle..So sit on the bonnet it was!

3036_66916597850_717762850_1614746_603535_n.jpg

3036_66916617850_717762850_1614749_557160_n.jpg

3036_66916632850_717762850_1614752_7913788_n.jpg

3036_66916602850_717762850_1614747_6739317_n.jpg

Was all for shits and giggles. :banana:

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...