Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was under the impression that the stock cooler piping was 2.5 inch ID (63mm).

I got a piping kit for an fmic, and measured the piping to be 2.25 inch ID (~57mm)

I thought this might be the wrong kit, so i measured my stock 33 smic inlets, and the leftover pipes from the R34smic upgrade. They measure 2.25 inch ID.

So, what size cooler piping is normal for the fmic kit for R33? Has anyone bothered to measure? Or just assume, as I did, that its 2.5 inch?

the hot side is often smaller than std but the cooler side is larger. i know on the big sr20 kits (like on our car previous) the hot side is usually around 57mm and the cool side is 70 or 80mm depending on kit.

its the just jap type 2 kit. it's supposed to be tube and fin, but i have a feeling they gave me the wrong cooler. looks like bar and plate to me. and also measures 600x280. i'm currently waiting for a reply about that. here are pics of the cooler they gave me

the piping comes in a seperate box, and it looks to be the correct shape for R33. but the diameter threw me off. after measuring my stock pipes, i'm not sure what size its supposed to be now. has anyone actually measured theirs?

yeah the piping kit looks correct for r33. i havent tried fitting anything yet, but it's basically the same shape as the others ive seen.

i just spoke to just jap, and they told me the piping kit is 2.25 on the type 2 (greddy copy) in keeping with the stock piping size.

they also said the new type 2 coolers are all bar and plate. they found a tube and fin in stock for me to pick up.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Yeah thats the general consensus between the 2.

I opted for the bar and plate. I'm using the stock turbo, as if flow is going to be hugely affected on the low flow a stocker pushes. Plus I'd rather have the better cooling side of things. Up to you really.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Other way round. bar and plate is cheap to make and hence is used more here in these types of kits.... all the better cores are a tube and fin type design.

so tube and fin would be a better choice? coz thats what i was going with

nissan smic's and gtr coolers are tube and fin. as well as the hks etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

:) yes i see

well i measured my stock cooler piping. the one that joins to the standard crossover pipe. it seems to be 2.25 inch.

so i guess the same size (2.25") fmic piping on a stock turbo setup is probably the way to go.

updated the link with pics of the tube and fin cooler from just jap.

http://tony.ikkon.com.au/fmic/ - (scroll down for tube and fin)

looks ok to me. what do you think?

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 1 month later...

fitted the cooler. drives nice. no added lag. still as responsive. feels like it pulls a bit harder.

i'm thinking it'll benefit from another tune. what do you guys think?

here's how it turned out.

post-29392-1197430267_thumb.jpg post-29392-1197430284_thumb.jpg

thanks man :(

the reo bar was easy. i just cut 2 small wedges out of each side of the bottom section. after i sprayed it black, you wouldnt even notice it's been cut.

the front bar needed a bit more attention around the cooler piping, but all in all, it was just a matter of patience.

Edited by Munkyb0y

lol. depends on the bar too i guess. does yours have a huge opening for the cooler? also, i hung my cooler from a single bracket in the centre, off my radiator support. the ones with the 2 mounting points that bolt up to the reo, sit alot more forward, so would require alot more cutting of the reo bar.

i managed to squeeze a cold air intake pipe just above the cooler piping in the passenger side opening (it's the blue rectangle-ish thing). i wish there was more room, but thats all i've got to work with there.

better than nothing i guess.

post-29392-1197602578_thumb.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!!  I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s.  I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones.  Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.
    • yeah... the 13kg/mm springs weren't always in there, I had 10kg/mm but doing a few SMSP commanded heavier front springs. It's so good now going into T1 and T2, just need more seat time and real tyres.
    • Yes, well. Mine are less than half that. ARBs are not set to "dumb" either.
    • I would hope. But, we all know even the best companies have an issue sporadically.
    • LOL well, lucky mine doesn't have some R shit on it. Around town, it handles so much better than the R33, R33 in the wet is pretty dangerous to the untrained hoon, especially with 13kg/mm front springs.
×
×
  • Create New...