Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After some "spirited" driving on the weekend my ATTESSA has decided to put most/all the power to the rear wheels. My dash light is off and the torque spilt gauge is working fine but 3rd gear fishies mean something is playing up.

Now I'm assuming that the transfer case is gone, which I'll just replace if it has but I'm crossing my fingers that because the fluid in the tank is a bit low (just under min) it may have got a airlock in the system. I know how to bleed the system and have some nissan fluid to do it and will try on the weekend...

But in the meantime am i just wasting my time because its definatley the transfer case or is it worth bleeding the system?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190708-attessa-problem-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

well i did say spirited driving haha

oh yeah the other thing i did that might mess things up was switch the car from 4wd to 2wd while the atessa was working very hard...

would this have done anything to the computer etc to cause this?!?

sorry guys for butting in. I tried bleeding the ATTESA sytem when i first got the car. You have to disconnect the green plug at the kicker plate. It was damn hard and i coulnt disconnect it. Any tips??? As how to disconnect the plug easily? Cos i have topen up the line at the underneath the rear of the transmission. Cos i got a leak on it andd im trying to determine whete is the gasket or an O ring on the fitting. But before i take the line out i have to make sure that im able to bleed the system after. Lemme know. thanks

Yudy

The transfer case uses a wet clutch system. These clutch plates only have a finite life, and 10+ years is well and truly in the "finite" catagory.

When you rebuild the case you can squeeze some extra plates in there (along with a couple of extra "tricks") to give a really quick uptake. Combine this with an ATESSA controller and your R32 will be transformed on the track.

The transfer case uses a wet clutch system. These clutch plates only have a finite life, and 10+ years is well and truly in the "finite" catagory.

When you rebuild the case you can squeeze some extra plates in there (along with a couple of extra "tricks") to give a really quick uptake. Combine this with an ATESSA controller and your R32 will be transformed on the track.

but i dont wanna put u to shame gav :rolleyes:

  • 3 weeks later...

ok i finally got around to bleeding the system on the weekend... its seems to be fine and have no air in it.

BUT

while i was changing it i noticed that the attessa pumps would kick in for no reason every 10 sec or so when car was just idling, you can clearly hear a relay clicking and then when bleeding from the nipple above the diff a tiny little burst would come out with what looked like air.

plus on top of this the fluid resivoir has the top section and then the bottom section, with a spacer between. in all systems other than mine the bottom section has a air space in it... mine doesnt

any comments suggestions thoughts?!?

Edited by Cerbera

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...