Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i lost it in the wet you f*cker and i bet i drive better than you. doesnt matter how well you drive, if your tyes arent up for it, theres nothing you can do.  

you have highly offended me

well i havent lost it in the wet! so i must be a better driver then you!

and i bet my dad could beat up your dad and i bet my mum can cook better then your mum! :)

LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-403362
Share on other sites

Guest terrance
Originally posted by akeenan

well i havent lost it in the wet! so i must be a better driver then you!

and i bet my dad could beat up your dad and i bet my mum can cook better then your mum! :)

LOL

you could be a better driven THEN me but i'd still be a better driver THAN you. :shake:

my dad is weak. we threw down one time (long story) and i won. mum's cooking is great. especially her scrammbled eggs. how i miss her cooking *nostalgia*:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-404132
Share on other sites

you could be a better driven
terrance quote
so i must be a better driver
akeenan quote

as the owned picture doesnt work anymore

OWNED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ?????????????????? :)

mum's cooking is great. especially her scrammbled eggs.
maybe a group event :D

sorry no rudeness intended ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-404141
Share on other sites

and for something relating back to tyres now...

Originally posted by inark

at the moment im driving my gfs soarer into work...which has simex 235s on ti and dont do too badly in the wet

My tyres are simex 235's also [on my 34] and I have no complaints whatsoever regarding traction...

A friend had Grid II's and lost it in the wet with his r33...

If you must spend heaps of cash then ask the right questions to a tyre dealer. You dont want to spend all that money to find out you didnt get what you wanted - which in this case is clearly "traction in the wet".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-409291
Share on other sites

Originally posted by nismoR34

If you must spend heaps of cash then ask the right questions to a tyre dealer. You dont want to spend all that money to find out you didnt get what you wanted - which in this case is clearly "traction in the wet".

Good point.

I would recommend you (well anyone looking at new tyres/wheels) go to Mag Wheel & Tyre on Chiffley Drv in Preston. The guy there will give you a no bullshit, straight up answer to your questions. I went in asking for S02 Bridgestones (255/45/18 @ $600 each) and he told me the Hankook 104s match them in every aspect for $330 each (265/40/18). I dont think he's gonna rip you off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-409486
Share on other sites

mm... terrance you whore.

anyway.

i mgot simex 215's on mine...

In the wet my ass steps out VERY easily and i loose traction on take off almost all the time.

That's due to my clutch though.

In the dry. Can't beat them. for 215's (i need 225/245's really) they do a decent job considering i've got some reasonable power. And i've smoked up a few times and drive hard... and the tyres look like new still so they've got a long life it seems

I've had yokohama's on another car and they were good also, very good in the wet but VERY soft and therefore don't last as long as other brands.

they were 539's i think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-411914
Share on other sites

Let me know what you decide Daz, as I am thinking of getting tyres too. Tonight i was going 100km along the freeway, when i changed to 3rd and floored it. The wheels slipped and traction control came on and the power just died.

My suspension is brand new so i think it is my tyres but that's almost brand new. Is there anyway my car is boosted without me knowing??? hmmm... as i can never get traction (silly question)

Oh yeah, and i got smoked:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19076-tyres/page/2/#findComment-416939
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...