Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

i just thought id show you a couple of pics of the things i do for a living.

I custom built this tailshaft, after 6 different styles of tailshafts this so far has been the winner for smoothness.

I build alot of 1 piece tailshafts for drift cars and drags cars etc, and in the S13/14/15, R32/33/34, cefiro and 300zx's they definitely do the trick. The only feedback i have had with them is sometimes they give a slight vibration above 160km/h. most of the time new engine mounts, gearbox mount and cradle mounts solve this problem, but for people who install pineapple rings and nolathane suspension bushes, this little vib up high still exists.

i have tried using rubber couplings like in late model commodores, but this still has that problem, so this is the best combo i have come up with.

basically, i need to modify your pinion flange to suit a BA on rear CV joint. or for higher hp applications, i source a 300ZX turbo or GTR skyline rear pinion flange, and use that slightly beefier CV joint.

I then retain the standard centre bearing assembly but upgrade the centre uni joint. for the front i use a billet 24 spline slip for R32 or a billet 30 spline slip for R33/34. All the autos run a billet 26 spline slip.

the uni i put in them have been tested to 540rwhp with no dramas.

for the R32 24 spline manual gearbox, i can only rate the tailshaft at 320rwhp, past that piont the slip yoke starts to twist, due to not being psychically big enough.

the R33 30 spline manual is rated to 400rwhp, past this piont, i reccommend a 1 piece, which can cop around 500-550rwhp.

well heres the pics of the tail shaft.

3 full shots of the tailshaft

2_piece_1_106.jpg

2_piece_2_151.jpg

2_piece_3_153.jpg

front end of tailshaft

2_piece_front_147.jpg

centre of tailshaft

2_piece_centre_157.jpg

rear of tailshaft

2_piece_rear_302.jpg

so there it all is. If anyone wants me to whip something like this up for them, PM me here or call my work on 3800 1305 and ask for me

cheers

brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191319-custom-made-tailshafts/
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Just reviving an old thread....whats the cost on something like this on an r32? I had my unis replaced and it cost $500 and has only lasted 8 months and have smashed the front uni but they look heaps smaller then the ones on this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...