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hey guys need a bit of info on fitting a nipple to my i/c piping for my manual b/c

q1. what does the nipple have to be made of

q2.does it weld straight into pipe,or do you weld in a nut & screw nipple into that

apologies for noob questions but welding isn't my strong point,

any help appreciated

leigh.

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hey guys need a bit of info on fitting a nipple to my i/c piping for my manual b/c

q1. what does the nipple have to be made of

q2.does it weld straight into pipe,or do you weld in a nut & screw nipple into that

apologies for noob questions but welding isn't my strong point,

any help appreciated

leigh.

I bought some piping recently that had a thread welded in. I just bought a brass nipple from Autopro and screwed it in with a few turns of plumbers tape.

post-8870-1193716613_thumb.jpg

i would weld on a threaded fitting, you can buy them off ebay easy enough, just not always the cheapest option.

Stainless threaded fitting for stainless and mild steel pipe.

alloy for alloy pipe

or if its mild steel or stainless you could get the brass fittings brazed onto the pipe.

Lots of options

hey leetom i had the same problem when i got my cooler. what i did was buy a threaded brass nipple. u know the ones with the nipple and the thread on bottom, so it screws in?

i drillled a hole close to the end of the pipe. slotted in the nipple. now to keep it there, i put a nut on the bottom, this is y u put it at the end of the pipe so you can fit a spanner in there to hold on the nut. then you tighten the nut. when you tighten the nut, the pipe should be slightly squashed flat against the nipple, and now it is air tight. i have had it on mine for about 9months with no worries.

hey leetom i had the same problem when i got my cooler. what i did was buy a threaded brass nipple. u know the ones with the nipple and the thread on bottom, so it screws in?

i drillled a hole close to the end of the pipe. slotted in the nipple. now to keep it there, i put a nut on the bottom, this is y u put it at the end of the pipe so you can fit a spanner in there to hold on the nut. then you tighten the nut. when you tighten the nut, the pipe should be slightly squashed flat against the nipple, and now it is air tight. i have had it on mine for about 9months with no worries.

I can think of 2 good reasons NOT to use that method.

1. You have created a restriction (however small) in your inlet piping.

2. Imagine if that nut ever came off!!! You could kiss your engine goodbye! I hope you used a nylock nut at least....

dont listen to some of these doom sayers mate. i have used aircraft grade (i swiped from work=oh yea... im an aircraft engineer at aeromil), vibrate resistant nuts for almost 1yr.

it works a treat, as long as you use a nut with the correct NPT you will be sweet.

some guys think up bad situations, they dont offer solutions.

also there is no restriction. compare it to the AFM. :rant: a little 3mm bump is better than a 3cm intrusion into the pipe, which a weld in option would use.

just make sure u tighten that sucker so it is firm, DONT OVER TIGHTEN IT.

now u want to find the nuts with a plastic inner lining around the thread. they will stop it vibrating loose, and lock the bolt in place. it is impossible to come loose. ive boosted to 20psi, and nothing has happened, because i have researched and found this to be the best option. :mellow:

Edited by r33cruiser
as long as you use a nut with the correct NPT you will be sweet.

Well it wouldn't secure if you didn't so that's a mute point.

some guys think up bad situations, they dont offer solutions.

I hope for the best, but plan for the worst.....It's always safest

also there is no restriction. compare it to the AFM. :rant: a little 3mm bump is better than a 3cm intrusion into the pipe, which a weld in option would use.

What are you smoking?....a weld in fitting is flush inside the pipe

now u want to find the nuts with a plastic inner lining around the thread.

They're called Nylock nuts mate.........So are you a qualified aircraft engineer??? I thought they were called aeronautical engineers anyway :mellow:

aeronautical engineers design aircraft :rant:

aircraft engineers work on those aircraft :mellow: , ive been working at aeromil sunshine coast for almost 8yrs, mostly on citations, falcons, and cessna's, but specialize in turbo fan applications.

aeronautical engineers design aircraft :rant:

aircraft engineers work on those aircraft :mellow: , ive been working at aeromil sunshine coast for almost 8yrs, mostly on citations, falcons, and cessna's, but specialize in turbo fan applications.

So you started there when you were 12? Your profile says you are 20 years old, so you must have done a speed degree :rant:....or is that bullshit as well?

thats not my real age mate, im not debating this mate. the fact is that if he follows my instructions he will be fine.

there is no debate :blush:

You are a wanker.....stop giving bad advice! And stop bullshitting. It serves no purpose and makes you look like a knob!

Mods....apologies for the whoring

man...you guys can bitch. i can feel the estrogen from here

r33cruiser made a valid suggestion, and it seems like it would work fine......IF you wanted the nipple that far up the pipe. i dont, so will probably go for the weld, or tap and cement option. plus i'd be nervous about the nut coming loose, even if i knew it couldnt. lol.

btw, as far as turbulence inside the piping....have u seen the standard nipple inside the pipe? im looking at a stock r34 lower cooler pipe right now. it prodrudes almost an inch inside.

Edited by Munkyb0y

sorry munkyboy i have to say this.

BAM,

"IN YOUR f**kING FACE f**kWAD"

RESEARCH guys. :P

end of debate

ps. my bad for the language, but u cant paraphrase a quote :PBJ:

Edited by r33cruiser

oh by the way... i found a myspace account from your email address..

apparently it belongs to a 20 yr old male, in australia, with no friends.

keep digging that hole champ.

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea...iendID=52376850

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