Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my registration renewal today, it is now risen to the lofty heights of $682.95 for the 12 months. I am quite certain that nearly every year since I got my license and car in 94 that rego has gone up by $50 a year. It has risen $48.20 since last year! And to think I used to complain about paying $320 a year to have my little 1000cc mini on the road. Looks like my other mini shall be spending more time in the olds garage as I can't afford to register it aswell unless I put it under Veteran rego and all the restrictions that go with it. Time to get serious on personal injury claims, no more whiplash claims for reverse parking incidents!

Sorry about that rant, just needed to have a whinge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19145-registration-whinge/
Share on other sites

Yeah, I have the Skyline and my trusty Gemini Panelvan for work to register, and I am really beginning to object to paying well over a grand just to register, lets not mention insurance. The mini is definately staying in the garage, or maybe I should sell it. That was my original intention when I bought the skyline, but nearly 2 years down the track I haven't been able to bring myself to do it. Its one of only 500 produced in Oz!

Maybe I should get a different job so I can rid myself of the Gemini, or just resign to being broke, mmmm decisions.

How much is it for an eight these days? I shudder to think.

i was lucky, ive been thinking about buying a daily driver for a while and my grandfather said he would give me his now dont laugh, 84 ford fairmont ute.. hehe, meh its got 12 months rego on it and ill just get 3rd party property insurance for the thing. but yeah my mum has an 8 it costs about 900 a year to register (i grits my teath)... cant wait till ive got a real job....

Lets just be patient, lets see, my skyline is a 94 so in 21 years I will be able to register it under veteran rego for about $150 or around there. Sweet, can't wait!

I should probably drive my line less, but lets face, I walk downstairs to go for a drive and I am face with a decision, Gemini......Skyline......Gemini.......Skyline. Its a no brainer! If I didn't work on rough, dusty construction sites, and work didn't require me to carry around survey gear, the Gem would be gone. By the same token I got the line cause I was sick of driving around in a dirty, S&$tty car all af the time. Might be time to go back to computers and one car, one rego, one insurance.

Free ute! Thats nothing to laugh about, even if it is a Ford!

Says he with a Gemini.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...