Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im expecting about 200 rwkw on the stock turbo with supporting mods.

I'm aiming for the same. You went an SAFC II?

emanage ultimate

It's a little more pricey yeah? Removing speed limiter is a must, i don't want approx. 200rwkw and then limit it to 180km/h, then there's no point making extra power :P

i went pfc but safc will be fine but no speed cut maybe get a safc2 and a speed cut defencer to save on cost from what ive read emanage ultimate is a very good piggyback if you find the right tuner to install they are like 800 + 500 for tune which is far less than the 1500 + 500 for a pfc

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I Sold my SAFCII to my brother for $200, Unique is goin to fit it For $150 & Tune for another $150, $500 all up.

If your going to do major mods later I would go for SAFC option

I Had FMIC, Boost control and SAFC had approx 200Kw atw pulled 13.3 1/4 mile on 19"s

i agree safc+rsm cheap and effective

Good point fellas. So it'll work out cheaper to get SAFC II & the RSM together + tune rather than something expensive like an EMU or Power FC...

I'm gonna head down that path by the look of it.

Ahhh can i still achieve 200rwkw without the SAFC? I'll end up with one anyway because the factory fuel maps don't milk maximum power i know.

Just get an ecu. You already said you're gonna upgrade th car in the future.

its not the cheapest option for sure, but its the best.

we don't drive skylines to save cash now do we...

i have done it mate. from memory it is wire 32, dont quote me on it though.

nothing bad has happened to my car, it is better than ever.

besides u only cut the speed/HICAS diagnostic wire.

besides u should remove hicas anyways....get a lock bar

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE: I took the 33 for a run last night to see when the speed limiter cut in. I hit 180km and nothing happened. The speed gauge continued to increase into 'nothing' reading, i'd say it hit 190km before i backed off.

What's the story here? Doesn't the limiter exist? Or does the dail only SAY it does 180km?

ALSO installed an R34 side mount intercooler...made a BIG difference so i think i'll hold off on the front mount for now, and save for an SAFCII + tune.

Cheers :angry:

It does exist. But the combination of the speedo being out at high speeds, and the fact that your rims are probably a different radius from stock result in your indicated top speed going over 180kph when you hit the limiter.

Good point, they're 17's on now. But i thought AT 180km the ECU would kick in, regardless of the rotational speed of the wheels.

Is there a way to find out if my ECU is modified? I removed the kick panel and had a looksie but i'm unsure of what's what.

Cutting wire 53 removes the speed limit and no it doesn't get rid of your Hicas, whoever told you that is an idiot, its the speed signal wire and the Hicas diagnostic wire. From your gearbox you have a speed signal wire into your dash, then from your dash to the Hicas computer in the boot and to the ECU in the kickpanel. With it cut your car will do about 230-240 with basic mods.

The reason people say that you get rid of the 180 speed limit with aftermarket computers is because aftermarket computers don't have this feature built into them.

Another reason why people say that the SAFC or RSM removes the speed limiter is because they use the speed signal wire......which most people cut and wire to the SAFC or RSM, see the pattern here? It's all to do with that one wire.

Cutting wire 53 removes the speed limit and no it doesn't get rid of your Hicas, whoever told you that is an idiot, its the speed signal wire and the Hicas diagnostic wire......which most people cut and wire to the SAFC or RSM, see the pattern here? It's all to do with that one wire.

Aahhhh makes sense now hehe. Thanks mate, i'll take another look at the ECU. If i feel confident i've found NO. 53 i'll give her the chop :wave:

Looking forward to freedom lol

speed cut comes in at 5,000rpm in 5th gear which in my car is 190km/h... which I hit about 3/4s down most straights ON THE TRACK

I can't for the life of me think why you would go bother chopping wires other than then you can brag to your mates about how quickly you were going when you got done for speeding......... and how for the next 6 months you will be needing a lift;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...