Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys.. and GOOD LUCK to everyone selling their car.. we should have a comp.. *muhahah*

yeah a the moment im trying to figure out a rough estimate on how much the cert will cost. and then we'll see what happens. But I'll try focus on letting go of my baby.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

(sorry snoooze..)

hey guys.. later this week im going to put it up on carsales and advertise it for 15,500 - 16k..

For a limited time, to all SAU viewers/associates.. I will sell it for $15,000! CHIP CHIP!

So.. ask your parents, and if they say no -- they don't love you.

Edited by S T A R 3 3
  • 2 weeks later...

Im one step away from having my car sold.. I can sorta feel the withdrawls coming in. The bloke just wants a mechanic to look at it.. so hopefully, i should hae the dosh by friday.. or early next week. *sigh*

Im one step away from having my car sold.. I can sorta feel the withdrawls coming in. The bloke just wants a mechanic to look at it.. so hopefully, i should hae the dosh by friday.. or early next week. *sigh*

It will hit hard a week or two after :nyaanyaa: i still miss aspects of the skyline and if you don't get another car just as fun to drive i am sure you will feel even worse :nyaanyaa:

the bloke who wants to buy it was tossing up between yours and shauns cars

if the mechanic says that it is all good you can consider it sold!

i will give him a call and see how the inspection went actually

Well the "mobile" mechanic didnt even show up.. he eventually gave myself and the buyer a call back at 1130, almost 2 hours later asking if he could do it at lunch.. but, by then Michael already had decided to buy the car.

Last night I saw the car drive away and disappear into the darkness, with the familiar skyline tail lights flickering a fading into the horizon until the night was quiet and still. *tear*

Now how do I get to work? DAmmit!

Last night I saw the car drive away and disappear into the darkness, with the familiar skyline tail lights flickering a fading into the horizon until the night was quiet and still. *tear*

Now how do I get to work? DAmmit!

Awww *hug*

You have your support group here to help you through - we can do shiftwork around the clock to get you through the shakes... a few coldies for the fever. We can give you small doses of rubbing up against our Skylines and slowly limiting the time... we'll get you through it, to a degree, but you will never be fully cured.

tuff... this is what I want now. A nissan navara turbo diesel 4x4 str so can just have one car, then work on saving for my dream.... R34 GTR in 2 years after house renos and some more equity on my current place

Edited by race_snooze

Wooo! I got a new transportation device because my teleporter wrist band didnt work.

A little vitara is now my chariot.. abit smaller than my preferred hilux (above).. but, legal - and only 6500. And pretty much all that was wrong with it was it needs a new clutch, which Im getting organised to have replaced.

It has a CB radio in it. As cool as it looks, I don't think I'll be using that in the near future.. any ideas how much they're selling for?

I still love my skylines and will still wave to and spot familiar faces.

Future modifications

Aftermarket speakers (only one works, other than the CB radio)

Air freshener (they drenched it with cleaner and 'new car' smell)

and the familiar 'angels and airwaves' sticker (zenith - I'm looking at you)

post-34609-1197012790_thumb.jpg

post-34609-1197012807_thumb.jpg

haha a mate of mine in college had a feroza (same car pretty much) and we used to see how far you could make the level ball (hopefully it has one) turn on a corner, dont know how that car didnt roll.

I think the first modification will be to dye your hair blonde and grow a pretty set of ovaries, that thar is a chicks car :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...