Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i got a '96 r33 s2,

ive notice my temp gauge on the dash sit exactly half-way now, and i swear it didnt sit there b4, use to sit below it wen at normal temp,

so ive flushed my coolant yesterday,still the same..

so im thinkin new thermo or new temp sensors...

the only thing is nissan show two engine coolant temp sensors..wat the hell..

one goes to the gauge, one to the ecu/some computer/thermo?lol

anyone got any ideas??

plus wit the thermostat, theres no gasket, so how do u seal it, i no i gota used liquid gasket, but it weird,do u just cover round the termo, and put the liquid gasket around it??

any info whould be great.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191534-r33-engine-coolant-sensors/
Share on other sites

The air bleed for the coolant is just in front of the right hand side of the plenum. You'll see a nut facing upwards that on a little bracket.

hey another questions..

is thermo on the outlet or inlet..

and yeah so on the plenum ay..gota take a look..it near the engine temp sensors???

or near the thermo??

Inlet

My temp sits about 1/3 way

Temperature may be different because of the % of glycol in your new coolant, clutch on the fan etc.

You may of also poored water on the thermo fan switch which usually shorts them and renders them useless, replace switch not whol fan if thats the case

I think theres also one more bleed valve ontop of the plenum, there are 2 on the Rb30

Dont have pic of bleed valve but you can kinda see it here..

It's at the top.. above the T piece and to the right of the plennum. You can kinda see it in this pic. It should say "Danger to not turn when hot or something like that"

01.jpg

yeah, thanks found it..

it does say "dont open when hot"

thanks for the pic, it in the top of the picture..u can just c it..

i heard u gota put a hose in ur rad. to make it higher than the air bleed valve..so it can actually bleed..

this tru?

yeah, thanks found it..

it does say "dont open when hot"

thanks for the pic, it in the top of the picture..u can just c it..

i heard u gota put a hose in ur rad. to make it higher than the air bleed valve..so it can actually bleed..

this tru?

Hose/something that makes the water rise higher to bubble off would make it easier but I just parked the car on a hill or an incline where the engine/radiator part is higher than the rest of the car. :P Bascially you wanna get rid of all the bubbles/micro bubbles in the coolent system.

This is what I did.. Bleed it.. Drive around for 3mins. Stop bleed it again. Top up with coolant. Drive for 3mins Stop bleed it again. Top up with coolent.. etc etc... Finally leave car cooled for maybe a day, then check the coolant and maybe need to topup again. Untill you feel that all the bubbles in the rad are gone.

yeah, put my new thermostat in..looks lik it has never bein replaced,lol

gauge still sits half-way..mayb im just tripping..lol

and i put a hose in the rad. and opened the air bleed valve..an did that bout 3 times..with coolant coming out the valve..

drove a bit..

topped up again..

and topped up again this morin..

looks all good..no leaks or nothing..

i beleve it would be the gauge sensor..

but im gona get a water temp sensor/gauge anyways...

thanks for all the help..

  • 2 months later...

yeah..sensors seem fine..

tried using electric contact cleaner on the two sensors..o difference though..

im gona flush my coolant again..but this time add "redlines - thinner than water"

its a little 750ml red solution that u add with only water..

and makes it drop a degrees...

and i asked around work, tech said its good crap..and def. works!!!

im also go change my clutch fan to a thermo fan...

that should make a hell of a difference..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...