Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im getting the subframe bushes replaced in my r32 gtr, by nissan,they said they are using whiteline ones,now from what i understand whiteline dont supply replacment ones only ,Sub-frame align & lock kits, which wont help cause my factory ones are leaking, or is there something im missing?

ps. how many parts are there to the oem subframe bushes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/
Share on other sites

I'm not aware of Whiteline making replacement bushes either. Their site says they dont make them, just pineapples. One of the only companies I know of that make replacement subframe bushes are Noltec, and also one of the sponsors makes them, "racespec" I think.

There are 4 bushes in the subframe, and they are all one piece.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3447547
Share on other sites

Nolathane and Whiteline... Both now owned by Red Ranger, not Noltec

NO actually REDRANGER now owns Nolathane, Whiteline and Noltec :)

Hello Valued Redranger Customers & Suppliers,

In case you have not heard, please find attached an announcement regarding Redranger’s acquisition of Noltec Engineering effective today.

Should you have any questions or concerns please do not hesitate to call your usual Redranger or Noltec contact or myself.

Kind regards,

Steve Broad

Director Sales

Redranger Pty Ltd - The home of Nolathane, Whiteline & Noltec.

Ph: 0419 699 393 (Int: +61 419 699 393)

Web: www.redranger.com.au

Email: [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3448485
Share on other sites

NO actually REDRANGER now owns Nolathane, Whiteline and Noltec :w00t:

Hello Valued Redranger Customers & Suppliers,

In case you have not heard, please find attached an announcement regarding Redranger’s acquisition of Noltec Engineering effective today.

Should you have any questions or concerns please do not hesitate to call your usual Redranger or Noltec contact or myself.

Kind regards,

Steve Broad

Director Sales

Redranger Pty Ltd - The home of Nolathane, Whiteline & Noltec.

Ph: 0419 699 393 (Int: +61 419 699 393)

Web: www.redranger.com.au

Email: [email protected]

just wondering what holds the noltec bushes to the subframe i see thay have alip on the top, but doesnt look like there is one on the bottom,isnt it possible for the frame to slip down of the bush?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3452063
Share on other sites

just wondering what holds the noltec bushes to the subframe i see thay have alip on the top, but doesnt look like there is one on the bottom,isnt it possible for the frame to slip down of the bush?

think about it. the weight of the car sits on top of the bushes. the lip stop the bushes slipping though the subframe. so the car is held nicely to the subframe. the stock bushes are the same. just rubber or silicon filled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3452085
Share on other sites

They are also a tolerance fit, must be pressed in. Have a look at almost all (if not all) of the bushes in your suspension, they have a metal sleeve that is a tolerance fit with the arm/hub, no lips or anything. Need a huge amount of force to press them out, in the range of 10-20 tonnes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3452145
Share on other sites

also looking at replacing my fron upper control arm bushes in my r32 gtr , with noltec or whiteline URETHANE BUSHES ,I notice that when installing these some people put a grease nipple into the arm, what is the benefit of that considering the oem ones dont have it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3452548
Share on other sites

I got quoted 8 hours labour to remove the subframe to place onto the press to remove the bushes. I felt like laughing when thinking of the tutorial that does it in 2 hours (not sure if they removed the subframe completely)

Did you get a similar quote?

However, if i could bring the subframe in myself, then it would only be 1 hour, obviously, since they only have to press the bushes out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3452624
Share on other sites

I've got these, they're a bit noisey, my bearings have gone a bit notchey and I've broken all the tabs on one side for the locking mechanism off (little tabs under the goldish ring). I wouldn't buy them unless you plan on lots of track work. Mine have taken a beating for about a year or so, but that said, they were bought second hand (good condition when I bought them though).

For a street car, I'd definitely take the bushes over those arms.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-3453432
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

get yourself the $100-$150 alloy subframe/cradle bush kits and save yourself a grand or more

Take about an hour to fit at home with a trolley jack and hand tools. They fit in over the original bushes.

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=270&page=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191593-subframe-bushes/#findComment-4466568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...