Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals, i've just recently joined the the forums, and I'd like to introduce myself. My name is Roald, but you can all call me Roo.... its easier :)

Now, I don't drive a skyline, but i do have a RB30DET (25/30) in my VL Calais, and I figured this would be a good place to get some good info on the newer nissan tech, as the VL sites i've become accustom to are more 'SOHC oriented'....

I have some Q's regarding my setup etc. but I'll get to them at a later date (studying....)

Looking forward to getting involved,

Regards, Roo ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, so its been a while.... I've been busy finishing my CIT course - flat out!

Here are some pics and info from the prevoius owner. I would have loved to do the conversion myself, but this came along and was far more cost effective :)

Engine

7,000 km's old

3ltr, acid cleaned, crack tested

bored and honed 50 tho to suit oversized pistons,

shot peened rods. New mains, big ends, small ends, balanced etc.

genuine Nissan head gasket

reconditioned RB25DET cylinder head with extra provision for VCT,

ceramic T3 turbo driven only on 6 psi

3inch exhaust with high flow cat

New bosch 910 fuel pump

Custom braided lines for turbo

Nizpro engine bay mounted intercooler

Wiring harness professionally modified to suit vl

Gearbox

R33 turbo 5speed manual box

Pulled down for inspection before fitting

Short shifter

Harness and speedo modified to suit vl

Heavy duty clutch,

shaved flywheel,

Fully balanced and modified drive shaft to suit r33 box

148RWkW and 530Nm on 6 PSI, std. R33 computer :)

Will get more pics up later on some time.

Cheers, Roo

post-43945-1196227870_thumb.jpg

post-43945-1196227880_thumb.jpg

post-43945-1196227887_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3502555
Share on other sites

148rwkw? :huh:

Are you sure that figure is correct? You should be making a lot more than that...

No offence intended.

None taken :) .The reason for such odd Power vs. Torque figures is due to a rather restrictive intercooler. Between about 2100-3300 rpm I have access to full boost (10p.s.i), but by the time I've reached 4500 rpm its all the way back at 6 p.s.i :) You can see on the dyno sheet where the boost really falls off. Once its gets up on the revs, the cooler simply can't flow enough air.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this setup should really start singing at around 4000/4500 rpm, right where its all over....

I'm condisering sending the cooler to Garrett for a recore (Nizpro tanks are good as far as I know?) and getting the turbo high-flowed/steel wheels. Any other recommendations? Will I need a fuel cut defender (sometimes it surges/cuts under boost at lower revs - i.e. full boost to manifold) or rising-rate reg?

Thanks for any input,

Roo

post-43945-1196474552_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3507884
Share on other sites

None taken :P .The reason for such odd Power vs. Torque figures is due to a rather restrictive intercooler. Between about 2100-3300 rpm I have access to full boost (10p.s.i), but by the time I've reached 4500 rpm its all the way back at 6 p.s.i :( You can see on the dyno sheet where the boost really falls off. Once its gets up on the revs, the cooler simply can't flow enough air.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this setup should really start singing at around 4000/4500 rpm, right where its all over....

I'm condisering sending the cooler to Garrett for a recore (Nizpro tanks are good as far as I know?) and getting the turbo high-flowed/steel wheels. Any other recommendations? Will I need a fuel cut defender (sometimes it surges/cuts under boost at lower revs - i.e. full boost to manifold) or rising-rate reg?

Thanks for any input,

Roo

If I may voice my opinion... :)

Well if you want to get the most from your engine set up (RB25 / 30DET) then I would suggest a fairly large low mount turbo such as a Garret GT30 / 82R, dont bother high flowing the one you have.

Im using a GT30 / 71R (slightly smaller than the 82R) and it is good for about 250rwkw, the larger GT30 / 82R will be better for your engine because you have more down low power because of the larger capacity and it will probably spool a larger turbo pretty quick.

If youre going for out right power then you will need a fuel pump - go for a Walbro in tank or Bosch 040. You'll also need to upsize your injectors as the standard ones will max out pretty quick, go for some SARD 550cc brand new squirters, dont bother having the standard ones high flowed.

As for your intercooler, I have been using a Just Jap / Cooling pro 300 x 600 x 76 front mount for a while and Ive never had a problem, I would highly recommend one for the price.

Get in contact with GCG in Sydney for the turbo, Powerflow injection for the pump and injectors and Just Jap for an intercooler.

Im using similar equipment in my RB25DET (550cc injectors, 040 pump, GT30 / 71R and JJR front mount) and my car makes 230rwkw and 550nm at 18psi, very conservative AFR and it has bugger all lag.

:D

post-17958-1196919715_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bullet32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3517303
Share on other sites

Great, thanks for the info :P

For the moment its on hold due to a matter of funds, but I will definitely take your advice into consideration. I have been considering dropping the whole lot into an R32, but again this is more likely to happen later rather than sooner, once I finish my apprenticeship :P

BTW, anyone know what a good R32 rolling shell might be worth, just out of curiosity?

Cheers, Roo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3524527
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...