Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have read and heard peoples various tales about the fittment of an R32 GTR front bar to a R32 GTST. I was wondering if someone can confirm or deny the possibility. My gut feel is it wont fit (without modifications) due to the GTR having wider guards.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Oh....off the topic, just thought I'd say that I finished my RB30DET conversion in my R32 GTST last weekend. It is a built motor with the same GT35R I had on the old RB25. Trying to organise a time with my cousin (Phil Laird) to get it tuned. Will let you know how it goes!

Thanks again

Ben

GTR front bar will only fit with the GTR guards.

you'll have to get a copy designed for the gtst guards.

or butcher the GTR one.

Bullshit. Leave now.

----------------

Yes a GTR bar will fit a Gtst. I've done it twice, to two of my own R32 gtst's.

Car 1, using GTR bonnet, bonnet latch, grille, bar reo and genuine bar.

2-2.jpg

Car 2, only using genuine bar.

IMG_1047.jpg

yo mate seen in ur sig u do looms.. how much for a SR>RB25 loom done. i need a regular place to do my looms. feel like doin reoccuring business.

Markimak,

Depends on the car but if you are talking an RB25 (series 1 or 2) conversion in an S13 or 14 silvia or 180 then will be about $350 for the loom and if you wish to retain the S13,14 or 180 tacho you will need a digital corrector which I buy from Jaycar for about $50 or $60 (from memory). I bought one sometime ago and played around with it in my R32.

Where abouts on the southside are you? I'm at springwood.

Cheers

Edited by BH_SLO32
Markimak,

Depends on the car but if you are talking an RB25 (series 1 or 2) conversion in an S13 or 14 silvia or 180 then will be about $350 for the loom and if you wish to retain the S13,14 or 180 tacho you will need a digital corrector which I buy from Jaycar for about $50 or $60 (from memory). I bought one sometime ago and played around with it in my R32.

Where abouts on the southside are you? I'm at springwood.

Cheers

hmm ur cheaper than my other dude... im interested..

RB25 neo from S1 GTT into 93 SR red top 180sx. can i run the silvia speedo like i did in the RB20 sil?

Markimak,

Depends on the car but if you are talking an RB25 (series 1 or 2) conversion in an S13 or 14 silvia or 180 then will be about $350 for the loom and if you wish to retain the S13,14 or 180 tacho you will need a digital corrector which I buy from Jaycar for about $50 or $60 (from memory). I bought one sometime ago and played around with it in my R32.

Where abouts on the southside are you? I'm at springwood.

Cheers

hmm ur cheaper than my other dude... im interested..

RB25 neo from S1 GTT into 93 SR red top 180sx. can i run the silvia speedo like i did in the RB20 sil?

"ahah wananbe gtr???"

nice contribution to the thread.

imho gtr bars suit the 32 best. all other aftermarket ones look bulky or dont suit the soft box like lines the 32 has.

Edited by krush
hmm ur cheaper than my other dude... im interested..

RB25 neo from S1 GTT into 93 SR red top 180sx. can i run the silvia speedo like i did in the RB20 sil?

The neo motors have a different tacho digital output. From memory it has a higher voltage and different pulse width to the RB and SR motors at any given rpm. Voltage we can correct for and you should be able to use the digital corrector but would need to look into this. Where there is a will there is always a way.

There are a few other differences from memory. From the little research I have done I know there is a number of additional load inputs the ECU looks for eg. Headlight activation etc. I would imagine this information is used in the idle control logic. If you want retain complete factory functionality you will probably need to provide these inputs although this would not be completely necessary for operation of the motor.

I'll have to have another look at the info I have on these motors and get back to you. I have another loom to do for someone else next week and I will likely be doing an SR20 conversion in my sisters old '84 bluebird as well so I am fairly well booked out for the next month.

If you are local I would be happy to catch up and discuss.

Cheers,

Ben

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...