Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i drove a turbo skyline today and the torque was massive, spinning wheels in 1-3rd gear, now in my NA i can spin em in first and a bit in 2nd, but in 3rd :rolleyes:. Seriously what can be done to extract heaps more power from the NA engine without turbocharging, ive done filter and zorst. Will boring out and porting the head make a huge difference ? im sure our little 2.5 (or 2) litre engines can make a heap load of power if it is tinkered with fully! ne suggestions ppls ? and no one say BUY A TURBO cos i dont plan on doing that! Neone interested in extracting more power out of their engines, cos im gonna go to workshops and find out how much can really be extracted out of them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19192-we-need-to-extract-more-power/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey man, my car gives great 3rd gearies, and even better 1st to 2nd ones and currently all i have is a hks super dragger exaust, from 100 k's an hour it keeps up with most stock turbo cars. though there was one series 4 rx7 that put me to shame but he shot two 3 ft flames out his two exausts when he cracked 4th so i thought then i was down and backed off haha, in the next few weeks i should have a K n N high flow filter insert an Apexi S-AFC and those coby extractors fitted, ill get it all dyno'd and let u guys know how it goes. would expecting 20kw extra be stretching it??

huge cams and ported heads to match.

this will eventuate in heaps more revs, and will increase power.

we will never have the same amount of torque as as turbo(without forced induction of some sort), but if we can produce peak torque very high in th rev range, u get the power.

maybe stroking the engine to 2.7-2.8 liters while maintaining reseasonable revs would produce some very attrative figures

shit went for a drive tonite, cold air makes such a diffrence cos it was going realy fast, counted 0-100 in 6 seconds just counting by mouth, and loss of traction with new tyres lol, but not like ur car NA_33, maybe i should flat shift it into third!

Originally posted by nismoman18

shit went for a drive tonite, cold air makes such a diffrence

to my suprise it gets quite hot under our bonnets.

i just added a self designed and made :D airbox to suit my pod filter

added some cold air induction from beneath, and it seems to be working to a treat.

there is definatly some more top end, the tacho rushes really hard in the last 1500-2000 rpm (which is where it counts)

:D

nismoman - cams, headwork, tuned ecu, extractors/full exhaust (designed for power and not sound), higher compression pistons (11.5:1- 12:1 maybe) bore the motor out, have it blueprinted, fully balanced, stroke it, make the intake charge as cool as possible.

You could opt for a 6 butterfly throttle system like the GTR's have, these are popular for hardcore n/a motors.

The above mods would end up costing bucketloads. Lots. Heaps.

You are better off buying a centrifugal supercharger, possibly fitting a decomp plate, intercooler, ecu and injectors in my opinion.

More power from n/a costs $$$ for relatively small gains usually in the skyline world.

Guest Boxhead

i would have to think a thermo fan would make a diff, i know i just put one on my turbo, but it made a diff, and i rekon the principle would be the same for n/a... without going for outright power, you can still make it quicker, eg a lightened flywheel sorta ideas..

they shoudl increase acceleration... or even maybe a auto diff.

hey guys thanks for the info, i was thinking the 6 throttle bodies however that would cost a shit load of fuel as well, maybe in the future. Boxhead where does the thermo fan go ? yeah lightened flywheel sounds like a next modification. but ur right, Shit load of money, maybe i will swap for a turbo :)

Guest Boxhead

thermo fan just replaces your clutch fan... basically its electric instead of using your engine to powe r the fan,

the clutch fan is the big fan at the front that cools radiator..

i got the top of the line 'ice' model 16' and it feels fine.. but $200 bucks.. ohwell.

Why would six throttle bodies cost more in fuel? It'll give better response because the throttle butterflies are placed closer to the valves, but shouldn't affect fuel economy at all.

Agree with slip though, if you want good performance from a NA motor, you'd better be willing to fork out some serious cash compared to the same performance from forced induction.

For 50hp over dead stock

NA: Extractors, full exhaust, headwork, perhaps shave the head for a bit more compression. You've altered the characteristics of the engine so you should remap the ECU. At a guess that might give you 50hp, I dunno off the top of my head.

Turbo: Cat back or turbo back exhaust, wastegate bleed.

Guest neoGT-25

Hey, how much do you guys think that throttle boddies and trumpets for a RB25DE would cost?

my to do mod list goes like this

* Cobe Extractors

* Box For Pod With Cold Air

* Throttle Boddies W/ Trumpets

* A'PEXi SAFC

* Dyno Tune

already got

* Kakimoto 2.3/4" cat back exhaust system

* Pod filter

it came on my car but ive seen them advertised for around 1500 dollars, not a cheapy. Its not a real loud exaust but gives the car a nice deep note, and apparently adds between 12 and 18kw's "apparently" id like to see dyno figures.

Guest Boxhead

guys, previously with my old n/a i was thinking about getting a good exhuast... basically i was told by many here, plus the boys at subzero that it isnt worth spending the big dollars on that department, as mandrel bends wont matter that much on an n/a car... your local muffler joint should be able to make you one..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...