Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just need some advice, i just swapped a integra for a r33 gts-t and i want to have 300 rwkw on my car. i just wanted to know what do yous reckon the best and cheapest way to do it is and if there are some good web sites for me to have a look on to buy gear the the job ahead

Rossy

Edited by Rossy19
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your new so just bear in mind theres a search function for next time.

and i wouldnt be chasing 300rwk right away as you jumped from an integra to an r33 gtst. do it up slowly and get used to the power. if your intentions are to use it as a street car then good luck getting traction :rofl:

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452946
Share on other sites

300kw is a masive amount of power.. I've had my R33 for 3 years now and I'm only pushin 265kw@ wheels and i still have a hard time drivin in the wet..

.. mate honestly, Get a full 3inch turbo back exhaust, FMIC, SAFC or E manage, boost controller and get her tuned to about 200rwKw.....

have fun.. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452999
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

300kw is a masive amount of power

But its fun though :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453201
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

But its fun though :rofl:

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :rant:

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453355
Share on other sites

Well there is at least one I know of with 300rwkw, but he knows he can't hold 5th for too long :( Still been going strong for over a year at least though! My engine all up cost me just under 7k btw, it was just a bastard waiting because let's just say it wasn't a planned build lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453564
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457268
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :rofl:. Should be less than 15k :)

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :P

+8k for the inevitable rebuild

+1500 for the diff

+1500 tyres (every 12-18months as you shred them)

+2000 - more brakes needed for 300rwkw than gts-t items

And thats just the start :)

Suddenly looking like a 25k adventure to me.

Basically if you cant afford the rebuild, you dont chase more than 250/260rwkw from the RB25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457285
Share on other sites

Can u drive? Also is that wanted number just something to tell the boys about once u have it? or are you actually getting over driving cars with 200-250kws or whatever and u want to move on to something more exciting??

I'm not saying u have, but IF u have just come out of a front wheel drive Integra (no other cars) please start off with a moderately stock manual gts-t...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457895
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

I reckon it depends on how you drive it ^^

yeah 300rwkw sounds good but its pretty dangerous to drive on fr, esp on wet roads, even when launching straight you'll do a snakey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457927
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458182
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

hahah, yeh like 30%. holden's HSV's would be pushing 200 at the wheels from the factory if that. 300rwkw is faaaaast, and not something i'd want to be thrown the keys to short of an intensive driver training course!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458202
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :D

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :)

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458578
Share on other sites

hey mate,

dont know you from a bar of soap so not gonna judge you

but i think you're underestimating how much power 300rwkw actually is. Jump into a car with 250rwkw and you will be in for a shock. And when you think that thats quick - 300rwkw will blow you away. its alot of power for a street car, bit of overkill if you ask me - and will take alot of driver skill to keep it from decorating a tree/lightpole/another car.

go stage 1 mods and get 200rwkw first then work your way up. 300rwkw is a far cry from any integra - even type r's

good luck man dont go killing yourself just yet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458582
Share on other sites

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Nothing wrong with a PFC at all, it was just an example.

Not sure where you get your info from - a stock clutch will not handle 300rwkw.

Brakes wont perform that well (in my eyes)

Not a chance in the world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...