Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just need some advice, i just swapped a integra for a r33 gts-t and i want to have 300 rwkw on my car. i just wanted to know what do yous reckon the best and cheapest way to do it is and if there are some good web sites for me to have a look on to buy gear the the job ahead

Rossy

Edited by Rossy19
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your new so just bear in mind theres a search function for next time.

and i wouldnt be chasing 300rwk right away as you jumped from an integra to an r33 gtst. do it up slowly and get used to the power. if your intentions are to use it as a street car then good luck getting traction :rofl:

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452946
Share on other sites

300kw is a masive amount of power.. I've had my R33 for 3 years now and I'm only pushin 265kw@ wheels and i still have a hard time drivin in the wet..

.. mate honestly, Get a full 3inch turbo back exhaust, FMIC, SAFC or E manage, boost controller and get her tuned to about 200rwKw.....

have fun.. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452999
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

300kw is a masive amount of power

But its fun though :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453201
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

But its fun though :rofl:

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :rant:

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453355
Share on other sites

Well there is at least one I know of with 300rwkw, but he knows he can't hold 5th for too long :( Still been going strong for over a year at least though! My engine all up cost me just under 7k btw, it was just a bastard waiting because let's just say it wasn't a planned build lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453564
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457268
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :rofl:. Should be less than 15k :)

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :P

+8k for the inevitable rebuild

+1500 for the diff

+1500 tyres (every 12-18months as you shred them)

+2000 - more brakes needed for 300rwkw than gts-t items

And thats just the start :)

Suddenly looking like a 25k adventure to me.

Basically if you cant afford the rebuild, you dont chase more than 250/260rwkw from the RB25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457285
Share on other sites

Can u drive? Also is that wanted number just something to tell the boys about once u have it? or are you actually getting over driving cars with 200-250kws or whatever and u want to move on to something more exciting??

I'm not saying u have, but IF u have just come out of a front wheel drive Integra (no other cars) please start off with a moderately stock manual gts-t...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457895
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

I reckon it depends on how you drive it ^^

yeah 300rwkw sounds good but its pretty dangerous to drive on fr, esp on wet roads, even when launching straight you'll do a snakey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457927
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458182
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

hahah, yeh like 30%. holden's HSV's would be pushing 200 at the wheels from the factory if that. 300rwkw is faaaaast, and not something i'd want to be thrown the keys to short of an intensive driver training course!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458202
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :D

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :)

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458578
Share on other sites

hey mate,

dont know you from a bar of soap so not gonna judge you

but i think you're underestimating how much power 300rwkw actually is. Jump into a car with 250rwkw and you will be in for a shock. And when you think that thats quick - 300rwkw will blow you away. its alot of power for a street car, bit of overkill if you ask me - and will take alot of driver skill to keep it from decorating a tree/lightpole/another car.

go stage 1 mods and get 200rwkw first then work your way up. 300rwkw is a far cry from any integra - even type r's

good luck man dont go killing yourself just yet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458582
Share on other sites

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Nothing wrong with a PFC at all, it was just an example.

Not sure where you get your info from - a stock clutch will not handle 300rwkw.

Brakes wont perform that well (in my eyes)

Not a chance in the world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...