Jump to content
SAU Community

Misfire Problem

sxygirl

By sxygirl,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

sxygirl Newbie

sxygirl

Posted
Posted

Hi there, this is my first post here, and firstly Hello :( - i actually live in Scotland and have an r32 gtst 4 door as well as an r33 gtst which i havent had for long. I am having problems pinning down the cause of a misfire problem. So far i have changed the spark plugs , changed the coilpacks (installed a wasted kit), just installed a walbro fuel pump. Took it out the other night - car still misfiring but showing 2.6 bar of fuel pressure on idle, up to 4 bar under pressure - it drives through the misfire and does run smoothly, as it does on idle, it only gets rough under pressure. Does anyone here have any ideas of what my problem could be. Any help would be appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Hey hello over there ! Ive read your post a couple of times and you dont say which car has the misfire ? The R32 or the R33 ? At a guess I'd say the first place to start would be putting a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on it as the Walbro pump is probably pumping past the stock regulator.

Let us know how you go !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3457013
Share on other sites
sxygirl Newbie

sxygirl

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey hello over there ! Ive read your post a couple of times and you dont say which car has the misfire ? The R32 or the R33 ? At a guess I'd say the first place to start would be putting a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on it as the Walbro pump is probably pumping past the stock regulator.

Let us know how you go !

Hi there Plynx - its the R33 thats misfiring - just got an HKS adjustable FPR (arrived today) and going to fit that midweek (if i can bear the cold as its supposed to be zero degrees tonight!!! if that fails its going to have to be the weekend as its dark at 4 .30pm now :-(. Desperate to get the car running properly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3457370
Share on other sites
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

if it's a series 1 r33, it could also be the ignitor at the rear of your coil pack cover.

also you've said you changed the spark plugs, but what are they gapped to? should be no larger than 0.8mm for anything above stock boost.

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3457437
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Haha ! Zero degrees ! Move over here to Sydney ! Nice and warm by comparison But uts a bit cold here for summer at the moment (20degrees).

I have to second what Munkyb0y suggests also about the plug gap.

Also when you said you have changed the coils did you go brand new or second hand.

The R33 Series 1 are natorious for cracking. Some of the cracks being so fine it cant be seen with the eye. A good way to see if its arcing out of the coils is to take off the valley cover and secure the ignitor pack with cable ties and when its dark fire the engine and look of it arcing out of the coils.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3459075
Share on other sites
sxygirl Newbie

sxygirl

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Haha ! Zero degrees ! Move over here to Sydney ! Nice and warm by comparison But uts a bit cold here for summer at the moment (20degrees).

I have to second what Munkyb0y suggests also about the plug gap.

Also when you said you have changed the coils did you go brand new or second hand.

The R33 Series 1 are natorious for cracking. Some of the cracks being so fine it cant be seen with the eye. A good way to see if its arcing out of the coils is to take off the valley cover and secure the ignitor pack with cable ties and when its dark fire the engine and look of it arcing out of the coils.

The spark plugs are ngk iridium ones so i dont think (maybe wrong) but i dont need to look at the plug gap. The coilpacks Ive replaced with a wasted kit (brand new) . Had a look tonight and

it seems that a couple of the spark plugs arent sparking .

Oh, and 20 degrees!!!!! try one or two degrees!!! blooming freezing

Edited by sxygirl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3461934
Share on other sites
Crash. Enthusiast

Crash.

Posted
Posted

i had a problem with mine too, got new coil packs, changed the spark plugs, checked all the obvious but it still was happening.

Turned out to be the CAS....

If you know anyone with another skyline see if you can borrow there CAS and put it in your car, see if that makes any difference.... if it does then thats where your problem is, then all you need to do is go looking for another CAS to buy, a 2nd hand one should be fine.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3461978
Share on other sites
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted
The spark plugs are ngk iridium ones so i dont think (maybe wrong) but i dont need to look at the plug gap. The coilpacks Ive replaced with a wasted kit (brand new) . Had a look tonight and

it seems that a couple of the spark plugs arent sparking .

Oh, and 20 degrees!!!!! try one or two degrees!!! blooming freezing

If you got off the shelf plugs to suit r33, they may have given you the 1.1mm gap, as thats what nissan recommends. But thats only good for stock boost.

Try gapping those plugs to 0.8mm. It costs you nothing, and you may find your problem right there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192055-misfire-problem/#findComment-3465249
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...