Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: 1992 R32 GTSt

Milage: 192,000kms

Colour: Custom Silver

Location: Melbourne

RWC supplied? Yes

Currently registered? Yes

Price: $26,500 ono ... i know i am dreaming, but its my thread and im allowed to :rolleyes:

Contact: by PM

Comments / Modifications:

Car had a wrecker motor installed at 160,000kms odd. New engine has not missed a beat, has good compression accross all cylinders and does nor breathe a drop of oil.

Quick run through of mods:

- Full Trust TD06-20G setup, inc gate, manifold with custom cooler piping and exhaust (turbo 40,000kms old)

- Apexi Power Fc,

- GTR injectors and Bosch 040 fuel pump

- Z32 AFM

- Adjustable Cam gears (cant remember if they are HKS or Trust)

- KAAZ 1.5way diff, less then 5,000kms old

- Teins RA shocks, purchased new, then re-valved with new springs at great expense

- Whiteline adjustable swaybars and bushes (27f:24R)

- Brand new Cusco castor arms and near new Noltec upper arms

- Brembo F40 calipers with 340x32mm rotors.

- Std 5 spd gearbox with Xtreme clutch and UAS lightened flywheel

- Braided brake lines

- HKS Air filter, Type S cooler and Hyper exhaust

- Brown Davis 4 point bolt in roll cage with CAMS paperwork

- Momo steering wheel

- Ex Jason Bright HRT Carbon Kevlar Momo race seat, alone was worth $3,500 when new

- Sparco 3" 4 point harness (FIA compliant)

- 19 row Serck oil cooler with Speedflow braided lines and alloy fittings

- Alloy GTR bonnet and new Nissan bonnet latches etc

- Weds 17 x 8" wheels, are lighter then my old Nismo LM GT4s

- AiM, Mychron Gold Data Logger, with oil pressure, oil temperature, inlet temperature and boost all logged with rpm and wheel speed, with built in infra red lap timer

Body is in good condition with the exception of one dent, was re-sprayed 12 months ago but since has had and the tickle in the rear quarter, should not be expensive to repair

Parts

On top of the parts already on the car, car comes with

- Jun open grill

- R33 gearbox with tailshaft , came from std car with std clutch so expect it to be in perfect condition

- 17x8, 17x9 Regamaster wheels, again very light and great looking on the car

Performance

Car has only been run over the quarter mile twice. Has ran a best of 12.9 @ 113mph at a lowly 2.3 60ft time as i at the time had std open wheeling diff and i always launch easily to look after driveline. Was only running 15psi (220rwkws odd) so in current form will easily run a very low 12sec et. To give you an idea at Dutton 06 with the mid boost level (16psi) and still open wheeling diff the car did a 17.98 0-800mtr time. The R34 Z-Tune ran a 16.56 0-800mtr time. So its 1.4 seconds quicker, which is a lot, but allowing for the launch and power advantage, you can see the car is credibly quick in a straight line. :laughing-smiley-014:

Car is set up to be a good, fun but reliable club car for sprints, hillclimbs etc. Car has ran faultlessly over two Dutton rallies where it has had several Top 20 outright results and 3rd in class. Running costs are relatively cheap for a track car, with all the expensive items on the car now sorted (turbo setup, suspension and brakes) Car is easily capable of putting some respected performance cars to shame.

With limited running this year at tracks, car has done 1:52.00 at PI, 1:23.1 at Sandown and 1:38:2 at Winton. Times can still be improved with more track time, i expect all times can be improved by over a second as the new custom Tein RA suspension has transformed the balance of the car and at Winton where i only had two laps furing Dutton, did a 1:39 on cold tyres then was held up by a F430 which was overtaken at bad part of track, so expect mid to high 1:36s at Winton, low 1:50 (possibly high 49s) at PI and high 1:21s at Sandown now that the suspension is further sorted.

There are no secrets with this car and appreciate i am asking very good money for the car. But for the dollars, you will struggle to get a car capable of doing the same lap times with the same sort of reliability.

As for mods/parts, well for the asking price you get the whole show, if there is gear you dont need then of course you can sell the gear and get good dollars for the items, $1500 for gearbox, $1500 for spare set of wheels , $500 for roll cage, $500 for seat, $2000 for data logger etc

Reason for sale

This car has been my pride and joy, but also curse. I NEED to go OS and chase some career paths, upon return if not sold will become my dedicated track car with installed gearbox, 350rwkw motor and completely stripped shell. Its too fun a car at present to go to these exremese with it, and the cash will afford me greater options whilst OS.

Images:

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

gallery_462_50_19164.jpg

gallery_462_50_508080.jpg

Interior.jpg

462After_Engine_Pic.jpg

462DSC07641.JPG

462Drags_Side_burnout.jpg

Videos

You can see the car pulling away from the driver of the Lotus Exige (Dean Evans), the same driver who some of you will have seen in car footage of at Bathurst where he goes from back of field to leading in the first lap.

Car has improved in the suspension dramatically from these laps, braking stability and mid corner speed benefitting the most

As you can see there is some improving to do with stability of car mid corner, under brakes which made the car a handful, new suspension has greatly improved handling and grip. And no doubt th elap times will fall upon return

Please, this is a for sale thread, so i would rather not be told by repeated readers that i am dreaming with regards to my asking price. I feel the car is good value for people interested in doing track work and club level motorsport and is supplied with the parts required for the next stage of development, which can be installed or sold to offset the cost of the car to around 20k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192493-1992-r32-gtst-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...