Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Way To Go About Flushing The Engine?

jUsT-dRiFt-iT

By jUsT-dRiFt-iT,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jUsT-dRiFt-iT Enthusiast

jUsT-dRiFt-iT

Posted
Posted

Hi there, just bought a R33 Series 2 GTS25t and the oil is BLACK like totally black :/:spank::worship::worship::glare::):worship: , obviously the last owner hasnt changed the oil in a while so i want to flush the engine and was wondering what the best way to go about it is? Cheers.

hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted

Just do multiple oil and filter changes within a few kms, like a day's worth of driving, or around the block of eachother. Depends if u wanna do 2 oil changes in a day or not. haha. Also stay away from "engine oil flush" additives...rumor has it they no good for the motor. Have fun.

R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted

correct me if im wrong but from what i have read, having black oil is good.. it means its actually doing its job.. alot of the good oil have additives that clean ur engine so it would be suspended in oil for your next service.. having clean looking oil doesnt necessarily mean clean engine etc.. 2c worth

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

The only reason why people would get shitty about using an engine flush is that when they are used, they will remove a lot of carbon buildup on the piston rings, which in some cases is the only thing that is sealing the compression of the motor from worn rings. They're actually quite effective.

Drop your oil. Fill it with new oil, run it in with an engine flush and then drop it again, if its doing its job properly it will be black as. So that when you fill it once more it should be fine

hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted
The only reason why people would get shitty about using an engine flush is that when they are used, they will remove a lot of carbon buildup on the piston rings, which in some cases is the only thing that is sealing the compression of the motor from worn rings. They're actually quite effective.

Corrected :thumbsup: haha

Grunter Community Regular

Grunter

Posted
Posted

Mate best way is to use engine flush then drop oil

and maybe repeat process once if fussy depends

on how badly fouled it is inside the engine.With my

car I change it every 3000km and after every track

day with out fail.This is a must if you want a good

reliable engine, oil is cheap rebuilds are expensive.

I have personally seen cam sharfts snap in 2 through

lack of oil changes.Always use full synthetic oil and

you can repeat your engine flush every time you change

your oil just to be safe in get it back to square one.My

oil after 3000km is just starting to lose its colour,you

have to remember that these cars see alot of revs

and take a huge amount of heat.Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...