Jump to content
SAU Community

Abs Light But No Flashes!

gzzmos

By gzzmos,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

gzzmos Contributor

gzzmos

Posted
Posted

hey guys

ive been searching SDU , SAU

ive got a rsfour stagea that has been converted to a 260RS. wen i take it for a drive it feels like its under load/dragging.

the attessa ecu isnt giving any codes, ive checked the fuses and all good.

ive tryed resetting the ecu via the consult port and leaving the battery off all nite.

now the car hasnt been driven for 18mths while the conversion was happening , and all the brake discs are dirty. should getting them cleaned up and bleeding the system turn the light off?

please help want my car goin by next weekend so i can take it to our agm

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192992-abs-light-but-no-flashes/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well don't worry about cleaning up/machining the discs, the first few k of driving will do that for you. Bleeding the brakes is a good idea though.

when the wheels are off the ground do they all turn fairly freely? You could have a sticky piston in one of the calipers. Is unlikely to be electrical related unless it is an attessa problem.

Kind of hard to guess from the description though. What ecu and loom are you running?

  • 3 weeks later...
Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

dude, First things first, are you still running the std brakes or are you running the 260RS brembo's? You haven't said wether the car is stopping OK or not?

start from the end and work backwards.

: As duncan said, don't worry about the discs, they will scrub up OK once you have been driving for a while. Just pretend you are bedding in some hard pads and it will be fine. Just make sure they are not warped.

: Callipers - are you 100% sure you don't have any stuck pistons? Also have a good close look at the callipers slides. I always give these a quick touch up with some 1200 grit wet and dry, a really good clean, and a very light smear of the best high temp grease you can find at pad change time, but if the car has been sitting then any surface rust could be stopping the calliper from positioning the pads properly.

: Pads - It may be worth popping the pads out of the front and have a close look at them. Don't just look for wear, but also for the overall shape of the pad - Are they excessively tapered front to rear (of the car, not the pad)? This may be due to insufficient "knock off" from wrong braking methods, Also, look for shiny spots on the face of the pads - this could be a sign of hot spots (also due to insufficient knock off) All of these will lead to false readings from the abs

: Fluid - Never underestimate the ability of brake fluid to deteriorate. I would drain and flush the whole system one wheel at a time, paying close attention to any difference in pressure from wheel to wheel, if you have any crud built up in the flexible lines it may be restricting return pressure even if it stops OK, leading to some pretty confusing readings for the ABS to figure out.

: Master Cylinder - Check all the obvious things such as vacuum to booster, signs of leakage from the master cylinder, etc etc.

I hope some of my ramblings help, but when all is said and done, it could just be the ecu change......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • Duncan
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By Duncan · Posted

      It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • AdiR34
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • Duncan
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By Duncan · Posted

      So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...