Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

ive been searching SDU , SAU

ive got a rsfour stagea that has been converted to a 260RS. wen i take it for a drive it feels like its under load/dragging.

the attessa ecu isnt giving any codes, ive checked the fuses and all good.

ive tryed resetting the ecu via the consult port and leaving the battery off all nite.

now the car hasnt been driven for 18mths while the conversion was happening , and all the brake discs are dirty. should getting them cleaned up and bleeding the system turn the light off?

please help want my car goin by next weekend so i can take it to our agm

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192992-abs-light-but-no-flashes/
Share on other sites

well don't worry about cleaning up/machining the discs, the first few k of driving will do that for you. Bleeding the brakes is a good idea though.

when the wheels are off the ground do they all turn fairly freely? You could have a sticky piston in one of the calipers. Is unlikely to be electrical related unless it is an attessa problem.

Kind of hard to guess from the description though. What ecu and loom are you running?

  • 3 weeks later...

dude, First things first, are you still running the std brakes or are you running the 260RS brembo's? You haven't said wether the car is stopping OK or not?

start from the end and work backwards.

: As duncan said, don't worry about the discs, they will scrub up OK once you have been driving for a while. Just pretend you are bedding in some hard pads and it will be fine. Just make sure they are not warped.

: Callipers - are you 100% sure you don't have any stuck pistons? Also have a good close look at the callipers slides. I always give these a quick touch up with some 1200 grit wet and dry, a really good clean, and a very light smear of the best high temp grease you can find at pad change time, but if the car has been sitting then any surface rust could be stopping the calliper from positioning the pads properly.

: Pads - It may be worth popping the pads out of the front and have a close look at them. Don't just look for wear, but also for the overall shape of the pad - Are they excessively tapered front to rear (of the car, not the pad)? This may be due to insufficient "knock off" from wrong braking methods, Also, look for shiny spots on the face of the pads - this could be a sign of hot spots (also due to insufficient knock off) All of these will lead to false readings from the abs

: Fluid - Never underestimate the ability of brake fluid to deteriorate. I would drain and flush the whole system one wheel at a time, paying close attention to any difference in pressure from wheel to wheel, if you have any crud built up in the flexible lines it may be restricting return pressure even if it stops OK, leading to some pretty confusing readings for the ABS to figure out.

: Master Cylinder - Check all the obvious things such as vacuum to booster, signs of leakage from the master cylinder, etc etc.

I hope some of my ramblings help, but when all is said and done, it could just be the ecu change......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...