Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright so the time has come to upgrade form my gtst and my options are rx7 s8, supra twin turb or r32 gtr...

anyone know which is faster..which has the most potential for big power and whcih one is generaly a better car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193056-pick-me-a-new-car/
Share on other sites

Im gonna say a supra. Diff and gearbox can hold big power and alot of abuse. . . ive seen a few drag clips of supras running 9s and over 1000hp on standard box and diff no worries. Also cos im a supra fan lol

But i do have to say i love the other cars you mentioned too so whatever you pick will be good.

Yeah Rx7 are fast but i have also heard that mechanically they will need attention. I don't know a whole lot on rotary's so i wouldnt know but yeah if you go the Rx7, have extra cash on the side!!

My bro has a supra and yeah Daniel is right, the stock engine can handle a beating to around the 1000hp.

But if it was my choice R34 GTR all the way but is this even in your range or you talking about a 32gtr or 33gtr since the rx7 are around the 40k, supras between 25-30k!

Haha you probably thinking all of these choices it just getting to hard!!! Good Luck Mate

of the three id love a GTR but realisticly i think the best car would be the Rx7, will be a lot newer (being S8) and if u get a spirit R its a serious beast :( soo light and nimble and god damn HOT

I've driven my mate 12sec JZA80 supra (twinturbo 3L 6spd), didn't need much at all to do mid 12s and with the speed limiter removed it's good for 270km/h (and handles VERY well at that speed). They are physically a large car which I don't like and is why I opted for a 32 :)

Another mate has a s8 RX7 and he loves it but he has deep pockets. It's also apparently REALLY light in the back end.. randomly swaps ends going round roundabouts in the wet.

How bout a teaspoon of concrete and just get a GTR :yes: or put a 30 in ya gtst >_<

i sold my R33 GTS-t recently and was considering a R33 GTR or 2JZGTE Supra.

I went a 1999 VVTi Supra.

Very strong drivetrain, awesome interior, reliable, torquey, powerful, sleek design, excellent value for money.

The thing that won it over for me was definately the over engineered driveline and ecu.

exhaust, clutch and pod and you can run 12s. cooler, boost, injectors, ecu and turbo kit and your well into the 11s AND still reliable.

cant argue the 2JZ reliability against any engine, including the RB26. I have heard too many horror stories of R32 GTR RB26s failing with very mild set ups.

plus, the R32 GTR is an old car, and finding an EXCELLENT example wont come cheap. interior wear and tear, paint fade, cracks and creaks are sure to be hiding there on a near 20yr old car.

As said above though, being a Skyline forum, I doubt too many people are going to go against the Nissan.

as for the chook cooking rotor, i have no idea :P

I also thought about an Evo, but couldnt bring myself to buying a Lancer.

Edited by _8OO5TED_

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...