Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, couldnt get this drive shaft out apon removing engine, so just ripped the engine out and bent the top of the drive shaft spline :) now its time to put the new one back in, and we cant get the f**king shaft out still. What is the easiest way about getting the shaft out?? this is really pissing me off.

EDIT:

in more detail. the spline and CV casing (one peice) i have off, it simply pulls out after you losen the clamp on the rubber boot. but the rest of the shaft that goes back into the disc, i cant get out, and i need it out so i can clean the cv properly, regrease it and put the spline and casing back in. Its hard to make myself sound any sense. ill take a photo

cheers

Edited by zertek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193321-r32-gtrgts4-owners/
Share on other sites

If it is held in with the circlip, the same as a CV is held on generally you pry it a little then push it back in and try again just to make sure the circlip doesnt get jammed in there and makes it near impossible to remove. Sometimes if you just try hammer a CV off and the circlip gets jammed and bent a little they have to cut the cv off the shaft.

If it is held in with the circlip, the same as a CV is held on generally you pry it a little then push it back in and try again just to make sure the circlip doesnt get jammed in there and makes it near impossible to remove. Sometimes if you just try hammer a CV off and the circlip gets jammed and bent a little they have to cut the cv off the shaft.

thats whats happened. which is why i am trying alternative ways to remove it. We have tried removing the hub but even with the break applied hard as possible, when applying force on the hub nut with my breaker bar, the rotor is spinning through the break pads. Going to have to remove the lot now by the looks of things, control arm, steering etc. to pull the shaft far enough back to slip the spline into the diff again. s**t f**k poo

Bozz asked the same question, probably only a week ago. You need to punch the shaft out, using a "screwdriver" into the machined lip of the CV housing.

Why did you not ask BEFORE you lifted the engine out?

Bozz asked the same question, probably only a week ago. You need to punch the shaft out, using a "screwdriver" into the machined lip of the CV housing.

Why did you not ask BEFORE you lifted the engine out?

haha, i did. i actually spoke to you personally in a few PM's about it ages ago.

Edited by zertek

here is a pic of the situation :D

see i have the spline off, cleaned and ready to get greased, go back on the cv, be sealed up by the boot, and inserted into the diff. But that wont happen until i get the shaft out so i can get room to join it up. here is where my plan of attack is at the rear of the disk.

post-32703-1194944481_thumb.jpgpost-32703-1194944523_thumb.jpg

So, it's not stuck in the diff, it's stuck in the hub? Then take the little cap off the outside, remove the split pin, undo the nut, pop out the shaft.

You only needed to punch the shaft out of the diff, then the engine comes out. That way the CV joint stays in 1 piece.

I didn't give a nut-by-nut description - some things become obvious.

if there is a way of getting the spline back in the diff while still attatched to the shaft, then id rather try that. but at the moment, we cant get it to pull back far enough to slide the spline back in the diff. So im going to attack it from the hub tomorrow. its just the hub bolt is so tight on mine that even with the brake fully depressed we can still spin the disc while trying to undo the nut with a torque bar

From memory, you need to disconnect the lower hub balljoint, and disconnect the swaybar link pin. This will enable you to swing the hub assembly out far enough to insert an assembled drive shaft.

As with anything to do with working on a Skyline, "if something is in the way, remove it".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...