Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy E-manage

daxter

By daxter,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
Posted

Hey, I've been doing a bit of searching and still unsure of which piggy back I should use.

Car is automatic 96 R33 GTS25t

Mods:

- Full 3" exhaust system with split dump pipe

- 600x300x76 FMIC

- POD filter with cold air box

- HKS FCD

Parts sitting in my garage about to go on:

- Garret T04 turbo

- New turbo manifold

- Fuel pressure regulator

- Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump

So what piggy back would give me the best performance on a automatic with these mods?

I can easily get a "GReddy E-Manage" would this be perfect?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193575-greddy-e-manage/
Share on other sites
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

you do realise that there is about 20 different versions of the Garrett To4 turbo, ranging from 200hp to 1000hp?

and why the fuel pressure regulator? Are you planning on running more than 350rwkw? If you are thinking about pushing more through the standard injectors - forget it. You'll kill them and your motor very quickly.

Simple and most effective solution is to run the standard FPR and buy bigger injectors.

As for the ECU - look into the powerfc. Its the best bang for buck, and I'm 90% sure they work fine with autos.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193575-greddy-e-manage/#findComment-3473262
Share on other sites
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

It has something to with retarding the ignition on gear changes, which the factory ecu does but the pfc does not?

I'm no expert but this issue has been covered in pretty great detail in the stagea section (mostly autos). Basically there are full replacement ecu's like the E-manage or powerfc but none of these can give you the level of protection for your gearbox and engine as the stock ecu. The stock ecu apparently has mountains of logic for different scenarios and different situations in order to keep your auto box running smooth and your gear shifts smooth and quiet.

Remove the stock ecu and you lose all of this and end up with a car that drives harsher and is likely to reduce the life of your auto box (worst case). Not saying it will break shortly, just that it may not last as long.

I'm just passing on what was discussed on the stagea section, but I've also heard from other sources that your car's stock ecu has a LOT more complex programming in it than any aftermarket ecu. A lot of it is to do with making your car safe and comfortable to drive every day, so whilst you can get away with a replacement ecu in manuals and you can get an auto running with one, there will be some compromises.

Unless you want huge power, you can usually get away with just a few piggybacks like Apexi SAFC and Apexi SITC. These wont give you anywhere near the tuning capability as a replacement ecu but on the other hand your car will start fine every morning and your auto will drive perfectly with no headaches. They are also easy to adjust by yourself if you happen to add or remove more performance parts and upset your tune.

At the end of the day, you just want to drive your car, so dont get too worked up about which is the ultimate best solution. Work out how much power you want, how much is realistically actually useful on the road, and then work out how to get there safely and reliably. Chances are you will be quite happy with just the bigger turbo and a bit more boost and with the mods you've listed plus the turbo etc you will be fine with the piggybacks. Its a compromise either way but I'd rather compromise a little bit of tuneability than driveability.

See the mods in my sig - i've been running with just a apexi SAFC for over 12 months and it works beautifully. The SITC will give you a lot more control and will reduce your lag, although even without it you can still advance your ignition timing a bit. Only cost me $150 to tune it too. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193575-greddy-e-manage/#findComment-3474517
Share on other sites
daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks pixel8r, that was really helpful, I'm after 200kw at the wheels, if I happen to make more power then that's a bonus :laugh:

Apexi SAFC was another piggy back I was looking at, as I'm after something to ensure there is a good A/F ratio going through the engine with these mods.

Thanks for all the reply's, given me something to think about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193575-greddy-e-manage/#findComment-3475348
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...