Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have recently purchased a R32 ECU mapped to suit RB25DET tuned for the same mods as my car and installed it. Now as this is a R32 ECU there is no output to control the VCT so I believe I need to purchase a Vtec type controller to switch it off and on like the factory ECU would.

Now I have a question firstly regarding this, is the VCT controller on the RB25 just a on / off device that the ECU switches on or does it require a special pulsing signal or such like? I ask as I plan to just use a VTEC controller if I can. Will this work just as effectively as stock once setup?

Now the next question is regarding pinout differences between the ECU's. My car idles at 1500rpm and after spending hours on here searching it would appear a few pins are different on the ECU's

RB25 Pinout http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ip...ECU_Pinouts.jpg

RB20 Pinout http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ip...ECU_Pinouts.jpg

My question is which wires to move where? It looks like the Pin 54 output of the R32 ECU needs connecting properly to the R33 loom which says its not connected or whatever the NC stands for but which others as I would like it to behave just like normal.

Any information from someone that has done the complete conversion would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for replies.

Edited by nigelswazi

hi nigel

the rb25 vct is based on TPS and comes on when throttle is opened, presumably past 0.33v on the TPS

once its past 4500rpm the VCT is no longer active and turns off.

/* RB25 VCT switching */

#define ON 1

#define OFF 0

#define VCT 1

#ifdef VCT

If (TPS > 0.33 && RPM < 4500) {

switchVCT(ON);

}

#endif

ive got an apexi VAFC coming my way and im going to try and use it to control the stock VCT

i dont think it will work but ill give it a shot. you can also check out the CAMCOM controller i think from buddy club or something like that - its on nengun.com under electronics

From comparing the ECU pinouts the R33 loom covers all pins identically except for the following:

On RB20 ECU Pin 54 Throttle Valve Switch (Idle Connection)

On RB20 ECU Pins 56/57 Im assuming are the same as the R33 although every ECU pinout for the RB25 listed those too pins under different names AT/ABS/LSD Control Units for both.

Then the only difference is Cyl No 4 & 6 Injector GNDs are the wrong way around but if it is batch fire it won't make a difference if it is sequential then these should ideally be swapped. Then the R33 Pin 133 needs to be connected to a external VCT controller to maintain factory VCT specs.

Can anyone confirm what changes are required and give any good recommendations of VCT controllers

camcon controller (should be fine)

apexi vafc (maybe)

gizmo have a camFC device (should be fine)

autospeed have a home-made device i think

dick smith / jaycar have a home-device relay switching device

Out of curiousity, why would you want to keep the variable cam timing? Doesn't it cause a bit of problems trying to tune with it for high horsepower applications? Like i hear about a lot of cars that push around 250-300 at the wheels and don't bother retaining the cam timing by either not tuning with it, or replacing the cam gear or cam. Can some one shed some light on this?

Cheers.

Out of curiousity, why would you want to keep the variable cam timing? Doesn't it cause a bit of problems trying to tune with it for high horsepower applications? Like i hear about a lot of cars that push around 250-300 at the wheels and don't bother retaining the cam timing by either not tuning with it, or replacing the cam gear or cam. Can some one shed some light on this?

Cheers.

I would like to keep it as the low down torque has decreased quite noticeabley. I can tell the ECU is better once its on boost especially on my AFR guage its a way better tune I just want my low rpm torque to be optimised as I do a lot of city driving.

Does anyone know which pin on the R33 pinout is the same as Pin 54 Throttle Valve Switch on the RB20 ECU?

I use a micro switch on the throttle body of my S2 RB25 connected to pin 54. When TB closed switch is armed. I had the same problem of high idle when I first connected the 32 ecu. This switch fixed the problem.

  • 3 weeks later...

Nigel,

Lee here (bought the springs/top hats etc). How did you go getting the ECU running? Im thinking of purchasing a re-tuned RB20 ECU for my car also, and would like to know your experiences. Did you get it working ok in the end, and do you think it was worth the money to go this path?

Cheers

Lee

From memory, doesnt the 32 ECU have a trimpod on the side of it to control its idle speed?

Also, I just had a dyno session yesterday and found that leaving the VCT unplugged gained me around 10kW and made my torque curve much stronger and smoother without any real hesitation down low, Im no longer a fan of VCT. 215.4kW @ rears on stock 33 turbo seals those thoughts for me. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...