Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 213
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What do you think a mint R32 GTS is worth (Rb20DE)?

Is 8k Over Priced and dreaming? Or is that a nice asking price?

what do you consider MINT?

if it were the RB25DE, perfect paint and interior and you were on your P plates, you'd possibly think it was worth $8K..

ONLY because once the P's are gone, the 2.5 head can be used in an RB25/30 motor build.

but your still missing the nice brakes and gearbox and diff (I think)..

:w00t: Unless you have "at least" a turbo upgrade on an R32 RB20det, you'll just be seeing liberty ass.

is the 2630 in your skyline yet?

What model liberty is it, i didnt think there was any faster than a stock gtst.

I have hks 2530 for 213rwkw. theres also about another 30k in parts in the car, oh and 10k worth of paint and panel.

The 2630 is underway, should be done by the end of next year at worst i rekon. Some of us have a mortgage to pay, do you?

Edited by 2630GTS

LOL..

I'm 30 and drive a 91 model car..

do you think I'm paying a mortgage?

and reno's, and wife and dog.

Don't preach to me about budgeting.. lol.

It's a Liberty RS.

yes it's on par with a GTST.

but a few mods like most turbo cars make them move well.

Considering the traction it has, it walks away from stock turbo'd r32's with ease if launched right.

It only weighs about 50kg more than the gtst

Turbo upgrade and I'd get left behind once you get traction.

what do you consider MINT?

if it were the RB25DE, perfect paint and interior and you were on your P plates, you'd possibly think it was worth $8K..

ONLY because once the P's are gone, the 2.5 head can be used in an RB25/30 motor build.

but your still missing the nice brakes and gearbox and diff (I think)..

Its just a stock standard R32 GTS, with nothing done to it at all.

Only one owner in Australia.. stock grey paint, no scratches/dints.

Interior is nice, stock exhaust, etcetc

Its just a stock standard R32 GTS, with nothing done to it at all.

Only one owner in Australia.. stock grey paint, no scratches/dints.

Interior is nice, stock exhaust, etcetc

Go to him with $5K cash in $50 bills in an envelope.

Tell him this is all you are willing to pay for a bottom of the barrel skyline

be prepared to walk away.

But when he sees the beautiful plastic monies, he will agree.

and you will drive home in your new skyline which will be beaten by any regular 1987 twin cam corolla.

ALSO - for the rest of you dreamers..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...bo-t174877.html

$18K for a GTR with mods.

sure it has a few small problems, but so does any other car of the same era.

Including your "best I'ev eva seen" gtst's.

:w00t:

In other news, I've been looking at another 4 door R32 GTST :(

Mortgage? Meh, i spend all my money on cans and cars. No place for real estate, wives or any of that silly business. Just trying to decide on the next car. PRC R32, just a club sprint special...or a neat R31 GTS-X or Sierra. Probably go a Sierra if i land the job im hunting in Kent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...