Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest NVDGTS4

Hey guys im trying to find a quote for an Exedy Heavy Duty Organic Clutch for my 1995 Nissan Skyline GTS4 , No one i right knows what the hell the car is or what kinda clutch it takes ? Its a 4WD Gearbox so it must be a GT-R Spec clutch i think. But yeh would it be out of a R33 or R32 GTR? . Coz if its like a R32 its around $450 but if its a R33 its around $950!. It's the same freakin type clutch why is the price $500+ so yeh does anyone here own a GTS.4??? that has changed their clutch.

This is why im confused its all about price!. If they were same price i wouldnt even bother posting but its a HUGE difference if i have Pull or Push type

Option 1 = $425

*Nissan Skyline RB20/25/26 Organic Kit up to R33

Heavy Duty Clutch Cover

850kg Clamp Load -approx 25% over standard - suits R32 RB20, RB25 GTST up to R33 and RB26 up to R32 GTR

Option 2 = $836

Heavy Duty Clutch Cover

1170kg Clamp Load -approx 40% over standard - suits R33 GTR, R34 NEO and GTR Pull Clutch Kit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194846-na-r33-gts-4-clutch-wtf-is-it/
Share on other sites

just on a side note, with option 1, your only getting 25% more clamping pressure which is bugger all, i'd be suprised if you actually noticed a difference over a brand new stock clutch.

If you were having trouble with you clutch slipping and not going very well with launches get something slightly more stronger

When you go searching for clutchs, no one will know what your car is. Just say you are looking for a r33 gtst push clutch to suit an rb25det and you'll see the shitload of options avaliable.

your clutch, r33 gtst clutch = SAME, SAME

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...