Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Has anyone used this mob for a vehicle inspection?

www.stateroads.com

This is the mechanical inspection they do, and they also do a body/chassis check which includes things like paint depth thickness to check for repraying, and an interior check as well.

Battery (condition Voltage test)

Alternator (belt condition/tension, charging)

Compression Test

Cooling Pressure & Co2 Test (Radiator, Water Pump, Heater and Cooling hoses)

Coolant recovery tank (condition, fluid level)

Water pump (noise / leaks)

Cooling fan operation

Power steering (fluid level, belt condition/tension)

AC compressor (proper cycling, belt condition/tension, Gas leakage)

A/C condenser (corrosion, road hazard damage)

Heater valve adjustment

Engine Valve noise

Fuel system operation (connections/leakage)

Valve stem condition

Engine & Transmission leaks

Engine/Transmission mount condition

Transfer case (housing cracks and leakage)

Brake master cylinder and booster (operation/leaks)

Tyres

Wheels/rims (Check for damage)

CV Joint/boots/drive-shaft/universal joint (cracks, leakage)

Differential (wear, whine, housing cracks and leakage)

Brake pad thickness

Brake rotor thickness and surface

Brake caliper leakage

Hydraulic hose/line leakage and free movement

Suspension (springs proper ride height)

McPherson strut/shock absorber leakage

Bushing condition

Ball joint and tie rod ends

Power steering rack leakage

Entire exhaust system (condition, leaks, damage, noise, catalytic converter and converter shield)

My dilema is, the car I want to get is in Qld, and is quite new 2004 V35 Coupe. Because it's a couple of hours out of Brissy, they want $450 for it.

Is it worth it for a newish car? If you've used them, any feedback?

Cheers - sorry for the long post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194920-wwwstateroadscom-car-inspections/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

Has anyone used this mob for a vehicle inspection?

www.stateroads.com

Entire exhaust system (condition, leaks, damage, noise, catalytic converter and converter shield)

My dilema is, the car I want to get is in Qld, and is quite new 2004 V35 Coupe. Because it's a couple of hours out of Brissy, they want $450 for it.

Is it worth it for a newish car? If you've used them, any feedback?

Yes I've used them for eactly the same reasons, long distance from any other area etc.

I found the engine inspections was good, but he said the interior was excellent when I considered it to be very average. The owner also said he seemed more interested in driving the car than inspecting it, but it was a GTR and the owner was an old guy who babyed it.

yeah i used em. seemed good.

Only reason why i didnt go through RACV is (becuase skylines an import) they have to take it to a cerified RACV service place for the day and do the inspection. Aparently they pull aprt stuff and ridicously check though it and it takes all day. Thats why i went with stateroads. Maybe not as detailed, but it was cheaper and efficient. (this is in MELB, dont know if it applies anywhere else)

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...