Jump to content
SAU Community

you are invited to the next antrx.com cruise


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Al

Where is this?

As long as Ash is NOT leading with directions, we should be fine to meet there, otherwise give us an extra 5 hrs to get there via Shepparton. :D;)

corner or springvale Rd and burwood Hwy.

WTF? I went the scenic route.

It's not my fault people can't follow simple directions :shake:

Guest 91nismotrx

well yeah guys, i had considered that car park, there was that one and another i was considering, and the other in blackburn wasnt as big as i remember it to be :D so we've decided to ditch the blackburn/nunawading meet point in favour of the larger & better known tally ho business park on the corner of burwood & springvale rds.

you can enter by the myob entrance on springvale rd or by lakeside drive/wesley crt off the burwood hwy.

melway ref is map 62 C7

meet time will be 10:30-11am on july 20th with an 11:30 sharp departure.

unfortunately half the antrx guys have had to pull out due to work commitments, so i might be the only pintara cruising (that is if my leg isnt put back into plaster) either way will go ahead & its looking to be a fun day.

I know the business park but where abouts in the place? Wouldn't it just be easier to meet in the easily seen & equally known carpark of the Burvale on the exact same corner you are talking about?

Oh, and what time do expect we'll return, ie how long of a trip are you planning?

yeah craigieburn is past tulla broady etc..... but if people are willing to meet up from this side of melb in say .... broadmeadows i'll happily be there! sorry i didnt reply quick enuff ... i work arvo shift and work til all hrs of the morning .. lack of sleep killing my brain lmao slowly :burnout:

yes... the are all out WEST!

I won't be leaving from my place as i'm in oakleigh the night before...

So maybe you guys organise it with Nathan (dj_lethal)

He's good with directions... if you got an E-tag

Guest 91nismotrx

i'm pretty sure i've already posted that there will be a meet point at the intersection of todd road & williamstown rd in port melbourne.. maybe i havent? just park on the street & wait at around 12:30 and join in as everyone drives thru (there is ample street parking at this intersection, or numerous medium sized carparks)

dont forget your cb radios.. maps of the route will be available on the day...

last week, on one of the most enjoyable parts of the melbourne side of the cruise, the speed limits have been dropped to 50km/hr and is being patrolled by 2 marked police cars & 2 undercover police cars at the same time.. this might be a section we end up skipping.

Hey, I just heard that the RS Liberty club is having a meet in the Burvale car park that day(think 10-10:30). Know a few guys from there that might join in.

Oh, my dato is cracking the sads at the moment so unless I can sort out these bloody miss fire problems might have to take the hot-rod. That is of course unless people don't want old school muscle in on the cruise?

Originally posted by R31Nismoid

yes... the are all out WEST!

I won't be leaving from my place as i'm in oakleigh the night before...

So maybe you guys organise it with Nathan (dj_lethal)

He's good with directions... if you got an E-tag

lol cmon dude im used to it when iwork at swapmeets and since my parents pay for the etag i just see it as a freeway... :)

Guest 91nismotrx
Originally posted by Sledge

Hey, I just heard that the RS Liberty club is having a meet in the Burvale car park that day(think 10-10:30). Know a few guys from there that might join in.

 

are you serious? after all that stuffing around to try not clash with anyone else, and we end up picking the same carpark at almost the same time.. ah well.. :bahaha:

I have no idea where this new meeting place is......

What was wrong with the Burvale car park?

Its always been a good place to meet, and everyone knows where it is :D

**edit:

I just had a look at the location, where are we meant to park?

It doesnt look like theres any parking in there?

melbourne_genmap.cgi?x=2514621.5&y=4404914.86423&level=5&star=&xyfile=&company=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...