Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ill try explain the best what happens

when driving between 2k and 2.5k rpm i get a grinding sort of noise in EVERY gear. dont know what it sounds like but its driveline related... mechanic said it was flywheel out of balance or something to that exten.

also i do get axle tramp (well the back jumps up and down uncontrollably when spinning at the end of first gear) I have pineapples and sway bars fitted but still standard shocks/springs

also i get vibrations that are felt through the whole car but especially the steering wheel when i reach approx 105kmph and get worse as i go faster

ALSO feels like when i release the clutch it grabs violently sometimes no matter how gently i try to let go. I dont know what clutch i have in there but it is heavier than standard but dont think its a twin plate (could be wrong)

i dont know if these are all related or seperate but i need to start sorting them out

oh i also get a noise when im stationary in neutral like a whirring from the gearbox bearing that goes away when i press the clutch pedal so im guess input shaft bearing or somethiong like that?

anyhow im thinking centre bearing for the tailshaft for the vibrations? anyone confirm or tell me otherwise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195174-help-diagnose-these-funky-noises/
Share on other sites

Yeah, you're throw out bearing is stuffed. That's probably the noise you get between 2k and 2.5k rpm. I was getting it the other night when driving, not doing it anymore though.. always makes noise while idling in neutral. I also have the my clutch violently grip (only once). I'm going to replace my clutch in the next week or so.

Not sure about the vibrations, that could be a poor wheel alignment, tyres or something else.

does the noise sound like a high pitch kind of noise like a fire work shooting off??

cos my r32 is doin the same thing only when its cold but... i think its the same problem as yours, i also got a shuddering from the clutch between 3000 an 4000 rpm in every gear no matter hot or cold...

Yeah like said above, that noise with your clutch in is your throw out bearing

Its inevitable, your going to have to seperate the two to replace the bearing but it soulds like your clutch may of let go, which would explain the vibrations (maybe tramp/violet grabbing also). Like your mechanic said you may have also warped the flywheel and it needs machining.

what do u mean by seperate the two? you mean take the gearbox off so i can get to the bearing or actually open up the gearbox?

throw out bearing = bearing that goes on the fork that presses on your pressure plate?

maybe i shouldnt of used the word violently, its more the feeling of a button clutch (but seems like its getting a bit harsher as time goes on) altho im 99% sure its not a button coz its not on/off there is play there like a normal clutch.. has no problem spinning the wheels either

im quite interested in this aswell actually, if you were to take the gear box off will the be a mark left around the pressure plate of the clutch? i will go take a photo now and post it up of this spare clucth i have and if that is what its caused from pulling out the gear box isnt a hard job and it will be easy to see if thats the problem,

JV

Yep, it shouldnt be the gearbox internals, just something in the bell housing you'd hope. Probably best to seperate the gearbox and the motor and have a peek inside.

My mate had a badly scored clutch that did similar things

sounds like i have to do that... i've never taken a RWD car gearbox out with the tailshaft etc and i've heard you have to rotate the gearbox to get it off as well???

+ its going to be a bucket load heavier than my old n13 gearbox LOL so im a bit iffy about it

Yeh, the 33 Gearbox wil be alot heavier than the N13 gearbox, (someone correct me) but they are around 90-100kg. Possible to "bench press" but the easiest way is with a pit or hoist, with a gearbox stand or the like.

The Whiring sound could be your thrust bearing but without listening to it i cant be too sure. They generally wear out and need replacing every now and then, but to do so u need to do as much labor as required for a clutch change so it can pay to do the change (clutch) when u r changing this over if your clutch isnt in the best condtion.

The Tramp can be put down to many factors (suspension related etc) or even worn drivline bearings, so best to check the suspension stuff out first as thats all simple. Replace any worn part etc, then if it still persists, check these driveline bearings. My car still tramps after doing a full SydneyKid Kit, and checking all tires etc. So im unsure.

Good luck

thanks mate, yeah knew it was going to be a cnt of a job. N13 gearbox = approx 40kg lol! baby gearbox

to make things clear i will explain again, pretty sure everyone understood anyway

pedal is not pressed and gear is in neutral = whirring sound (bearing is making contact and shaft is spinning even tho its neutral)

pedal is pressed = no sound (as this pulls the shaft out of the gearbox so its not spinning no more so no more sound correct?)

hey got a pic of the clutch from my spare RB20, if the clucth has this mark on the pressure plate does that mean the bearing is gone? have a look at the pic, if you pull out your gear box and its the same then that might be the noise,

JV

post-17389-1196242967_thumb.jpg

in that photo, i would think all clutches get that mark after use? but im not sure as ive only ever replaced 1 clutch myself and didnt really have a good look at the old one

i actually got a button clutch + flywheel my old boss gave me that had the exact same noise but it only done it on take off not at about 2k rpm like mine

will have a look at that and see if i find anything sus

hey man hi i have the same problem just started did u find out what the problem was

how did u fix it

thanks mate, yeah knew it was going to be a cnt of a job. N13 gearbox = approx 40kg lol! baby gearbox

to make things clear i will explain again, pretty sure everyone understood anyway

pedal is not pressed and gear is in neutral = whirring sound (bearing is making contact and shaft is spinning even tho its neutral)

pedal is pressed = no sound (as this pulls the shaft out of the gearbox so its not spinning no more so no more sound correct?)

guys if you push the pedal in and the noise goes away that means your GEARBOX bearings are shot as the gearbox still spins in neutral, by pushing the clutch you take the gearbox out of the equation. Vice versa and the opposite is true.

The marks on the diaphragm spring on the pressure plate are normal as this is the surface the thrust bearing runs against.

hope this helps.

cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update, fixed the vibrations at 100km/h

was a wheel balance/alignment issue even tho i bought the car with 4 new tyres they mustnt have been balanced even tho they had the weights on the wheels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...