Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 141
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if map sensors were so bad then all aftermarket ecu's wouldnt come with map sensors in the first place.. you only UPGRADE to aftermarket ecu's not down grade.. at a given power stage a afm will become a restriction weather it be 600rwkw or not, at some point it will end up restricting power or the abilitly to tune.

Ho rbs13, you posted "if map sensors were so bad then all aftermarket ecu's wouldnt come with map sensors in the first place"

Nobody said MAPs are bad, just that AFM's are more accurate. The reason why some (not all) aftermarket ECU's use map sensors is because they are cheaper and can be integrated into the ECU itself (ie; small in size). Plus setting up an AFM on a car that does not have one can be tricky, no such trouble with Skylines that already have AFM's.

"you only UPGRADE to aftermarket ecu's not down grade"

The are plenty of OE ECU's that prove that wrong. They are way smarter and faster than most aftermarket ECU's. I would argue that the standard R32 GTST ECU (and it's 15 years old remember) is "smarter" than a lot of current aftermarket ECU's.

"at a given power stage a afm will become a restriction weather it be 600rwkw or not, at some point it will end up restricting power or the abilitly to tune"

True, but if that level is higher than your target power, why worry about it? Enjoy the smoother running and better fuel economy of an AFM equiped car. Two Q45 AFM's will handle 850 bhp, so there is plenty of room to move up.

There is a place for both MAP's and AFM's, but on road only and road/track Skylines, the AFM sensored ECU is still very hard to beat.

Hope that clarifies

Originally posted by rbs13

if map sensors were so bad then all aftermarket ecu's wouldnt come with map sensors in the first place.. you only UPGRADE to aftermarket ecu's not down grade.. at a given power stage a afm will become a restriction weather it be 600rwkw or not, at some point it will end up restricting power or the abilitly to tune.

hrmmm .....

Who said map sensors where that bad?

Generally the main reason why people lean away from AFM's is because the power level they are after.

If they were building the car to be better on petrol (not likely) they would not ditch the AFM for the Map sensor.

600rwkw you wouldn't bother with AFM's unless you were going to run 2 Nissan Q45 AFM's.

What I like about AFMs is that they are far more tolerant to slight changes in engine tune. They actually measure airflow directly, and that is a very important advantage in my opinion.

A MAP sensor cannot do this. A map sensor assumes that at a certain given manifold pressure, flow through the engine will be xxx CFM of air. But what if you move the valve timing slightly, or fit a different exhaust turbine housing ? You get to completely remap the engine because the breathing characteristics have now significantly changed.

This is fine for a competition car that spends more time on the dyno than on the track. But what if you are just an average joe with a car port at home, and you want to try a different exhaust muffler ? The change in exhaust back pressure might really screw up your mixtures, probably not by much but it will have some effect.

With an AFM, your new beaut muffler might change airflow, and the AFM just alters the fuel to suit the measured increase or decrease.

So, apart from all the theory, there are also practical considerations as well.

As far as restricting power, well, atmospheric pressure is around 410 inches of water, so if your airflow meter has a four inch water pressure drop, you are still getting 99% of atmospheric pressure and density. Not enough to really worry about I think.

The induction temperature at your cold air pickup point might be 300 degrees Kelvin (at 27C ambient), if you can lower this by 3C you will pick up 1% in air density which will easily compensate for the drop across your AFM.

So some guy fit two huge Q45 AFMs to reduce the imaginary horrible power loss, and then fits a couple of crappy pod filters right behind the radiator. I cannot understand the logic behind any of that.

the reason im putting RB20 turbos on is that i already had one, and they are cheap, when it is all up and running and if its really laggy, ill might have to consider a RB30 bottom end. But anit these alot weaker than my bottom end. What type of internals would i have to put in, like pistons? chankshaft? gearbox??

R32 GTSTT, please do a search to answer the rest of your questions. Pistons, crankshaft and gearbox for a RB30 have been discussed a million times already.

You still haven't told us how much power you're looking for. Do you expect to drive this car on the street?

well i wasn't to concerned about the power it wil make. I have a open mind about it, i just want to make the most power out of these 2 turbos at the moment. I do plan to drive it on the street, and drags aswell. If it is extremely laggy then i will consider smaller turbos, or doing a RB30 conversion. The main concerns i have at the moment are if my fuel pump, injectors, and afm, and ecu. Just wondering if u guys think if any of these things will be holding back my power?? Cheers

yer cheers, i think i will, just have to find the right place to go in perth. Say the stock turbos come on boost at 2800, ppl r saying two wont spool up until twice that say 5500rpm. But doesn;t the car produce more exhaust gas between 2800-5500 than it does from 0-2800. So wouldn't it take much less than twice the rpm??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...