Jump to content
SAU Community

Ticking Noice In Engine Bay!

Styline GTR

By Styline GTR,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Styline GTR Rising Star

Styline GTR

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

When i take the Key out of the Ignition and the Turbo timer is running there is a clicking noise in the Engine bay somewhere. It only clicks when the key is out and turbo timer is running. the HICAS lights flashes continuouslly on the dash and it ticks away like something is trying to Click into place or something..

Any Help????

Doesn't click when key is in and driving so no problems there!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195789-ticking-noice-in-engine-bay/
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Could well be a relay as they will click. If it is a relay there is a reason for it to be operating. Best to do a diagnostic on the HICAS system. If you dont know how to download the workshop manual.

Deren

Styline GTR Rising Star

Styline GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Could well be a relay as they will click. If it is a relay there is a reason for it to be operating. Best to do a diagnostic on the HICAS system. If you dont know how to download the workshop manual.

Deren

cheers for that mate!!! The Abs Light is on in the dash and apparently the relays are the problem on the ABS unit! could this be the clicking noice even when the hicas light flashes on the dash when the turbo timer is running???

Styline GTR Rising Star

Styline GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When the engine Is ticking and clicking when turbo timer is running the powersteering pipe seem to rattle near the Battery! like the pipes are not getting fluid in them but it seem to be steering fine!! I think there the steering fluid pipes that run beside the battery and between the radiator!

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted
When the engine Is ticking and clicking when turbo timer is running the powersteering pipe seem to rattle near the Battery! like the pipes are not getting fluid in them but it seem to be steering fine!! I think there the steering fluid pipes that run beside the battery and between the radiator!

nope.. because it would be clicking when on idle too.. not jsut when key is out

Styline GTR Rising Star

Styline GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
could it be possible that when u wired it to the ecu that u have a few wires in contact with each other. this may be causing the problem?

Umm i havent touched the Turbo Timer since buying the Car over 5 years ago! Its been going for a few months like this now and it kind of annoying!!! Anyone else out there have this problem??? Where is the HICAS Solenoid anyway???

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...