Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Ford C4 Automatic gearbox

Age: Just rebuilt

Condition: Used but freshened up

Price: $1600

To Fit: Any RB powered RWD vehicle

Location: Wollongong

Contact: [email protected] or via PM

Comments: Comes complete with freshened box, RB bell housing and custom bellhousing adaptor plate to suit. Also includes bellhousing bolts. Perfect for a VL or Skyline wishing to go auto. Non-transbrake valvebody.

bellhousing.jpg

IMG_0552.jpg

IMG_0553.jpg

IMG_0554.jpg

IMG_0555.jpg

Seems like a good deal. Transbrake? Rollerised? How many clutches? Upgraded input shaft? Convertor? What valvebody? Any specific hp level it is aimed at?

Non-transbrake forward pattern full manual valvebody. Has extra clutches although I don't know how many. Not 100% sure but I believe the input shaft is a Hi-Tuff shaft. Came out of a 10 second, bottle fed Capri which made around 450hp but bags of torque. No converter. The only thing wrong with it when it came out to be freshened up was the top gear bands were a little worn. These were replaced and clearanced accordingly.

good. ull have no excuses for when u come up to qld and lose then :P

Mr awdboy if by some freak of nature you beat Adrian I have 2 other GTST's that wil be racing early next year you can race aswell :laughing-smiley-014:

Mr awdboy if by some freak of nature you beat Adrian I have 2 other GTST's that wil be racing early next year you can race aswell :laughing-smiley-014:

it dont count if they dont have rb25's in them :woot:

You're in the river that runs through Africa, then?

DA NILE

Mr awdboy if by some freak of nature you beat Adrian I have 2 other GTST's that wil be racing early next year you can race aswell :laughing-smiley-014:

haha

Shane's car will never be ready built in time for drags. petrol will be scarce at that point in time.

big ass pic

u couldve found a better pic than that

but i must say properly built/tuned rb25's are very strong, heaps of torque off boost too. properly built i mean solid lifters, big valves, big ports, half decent sized cams etc etc lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...