Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan.

Model: 180sx

Milage: 140,000km

Transmission: Manual

Colour: Gunmetal grey

Location: SE suburbs, Melbourne

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? No, car is wrecked.

Currently registered? No

Price: $2,600 neg!

Comments / Modifications:

Time to sell my 180 wreck.....

I will NOT be seperating any parts so please do not ask. Here are some more details....

- 1989 CA18DET 180sx.

- Gunmetal grey.

- About 140,000km's on the clock.

- 5spd manual.

- Has a lukey muffler/cat back.

- Pretty much stock car.

Now as for the damage....car was hit on the front driver side. This caused the driver strut tower to be pushed in, and the wheel was pushed into the drivers footwell (refer to pics).

The engine seems to be pushed over a cm or two. I havent had the engine running or anything after the accident, but after i was hit, the engine was still running (i had to turn it off). However, the throttle body got jammed open, and now the throttle body is stuck.

I will take some better pics on sunday when i got to my dads place. This wreck would be ideal for an import wreckers or something like that, as im NOT going to be stripping any parts off it, so please dont ask, wreck is being sold complete! This 180 was extremley clean before the accident, never had one mechanical issue with it in the year i owned it, and it took me 7 months to find such a clean example!

Any other questions, just ask.

Located in SE suburbs of Melb.

Not sure what price to put on it, but for the time im going to say $3,000 neg. NOW $2,600 neg

DSC01762.jpg

DSC01761.jpg

DSC01755.jpg

DSC01759.jpg

DSC01758.jpg

DSC01757.jpg

DSC01763.jpg

DSC01764.jpg

Thanks,

Will.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197074-180sx-wreck-for-sale-ca18det/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...