Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dudes,

Basically here is my setup:

RB25det series one motor

PFC

Full 3" zorst

Z32 fuel pump

Z32 Afm

Apexi Pod filter

Adj fuel regulator

I recently swapped out my stock series 1 RB25det injectors with S15 480cc ones.

I followed exactly what was listed in the forum write ups on how to do the swap which was pretty straight forward.

....but now...she doesn't fire up! :(

Somehow whenever I turn the key the fuel pump will go for abt 5 seconds but the fuel press does not rise, even if i turn the key off and on a few times to get the press going. When I turn the key 2start she sort of cranks just once then the panel lights dim as if the starter is jammed! Battery voltage is 12v, the new inj settings and latency has been corrected and there is fuel heading towards the rail....

anyone experience this before? what gives?

your help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers :(

Edited by a31gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197406-help-s15-injector-swap-to-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Mafia: the FPR was working fine before the swap

URAS: have you experienced this before? I carefully lubed the orings wth rubber lube and inserted the injectors into the rail slowly and screwed the injector caps very even and consistently. I also turn the injectors around in the rail a few times to ensure that if the oring was pinched i'd feel it. for hydraulic lock happen i'm guessing the cylinders have gotta be really filled with fuel, but in this case the only amt of fuel that has gone in is when i turn the key to ign and the pump turns for abt 5seconds... still i'll check out the cylinders from the plug holes to see if their filled.

anyone else have any ideas? god i hope the damn motor's not jammed!

Cheers

What is the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine? Have you tried boosting the battery with a jump-start?

What happens if you remove all the spark plugs and crank?

What is the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine? Have you tried boosting the battery with a jump-start?

What happens if you remove all the spark plugs and crank?

Batt voltage is a good 12v, lights, fuel pump and starter are nice and juicy.

haven't tried with a booster battery...am afraid i might fry the PFC...

check your o-rings on the injectors... i see this like 3 to 5 times a week... customer installs injectors and the rail wont pressurise because the pump is pumping fuel str8 past the damaged o-rings into the cylinder and the car hydraulics and wont crank. remmeber the injectors have TWO orings one large one at the top and a small one at the base... many forget the small ones at the base.

post-34927-1197524799_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1197524812_thumb.jpg

check your o-rings on the injectors... i see this like 3 to 5 times a week... customer installs injectors and the rail wont pressurise because the pump is pumping fuel str8 past the damaged o-rings into the cylinder and the car hydraulics and wont crank. remmeber the injectors have TWO orings one large one at the top and a small one at the base... many forget the small ones at the base.

Thanks URAS,

I believe you hit the nail right on the head! I recall very clearly replacing the big o-rings but not the small ones.

holy christ! now i've gotta remove everything all over again..haha.

once this is done and i have cranked it without the plugs in, is it safe to put plugs back in and start?...i wont risk blowing anything right...with all that fuel sitting somewhere...

drain oil and change oil filter, with that much fuel in the cylinders you will find that alot of it has drained into the sump and diluted the oil... if you dont change it worst case scenario is a sump explosion if there is a LOT of fuel in the sump.

drain oil, change oil and filter and you should be laughing.

Yeah mate did a similar thing to this, bought some injectors off me, put the top/bottom o-rings in correctly but accidently split the bottom o-ring on number 6 injector and didn't notice. Had no exh manifold at the time. Remember standing back as oldmate cranked it and another dude was infront of me looking at the motor then hellloooooo flame ball to the face lol.

But yeah back on topic agree totally with uras.

Edited by James_03

Opened the plugs up to check... Cylinders 1 thru 6 were filled with petrol!

Drained everything out, put the o-rings in, added some oil in each cylinder b4 putting plugs back in...voila...it started!

ran like a bitch tho...prolly fouled up by the oil...

drained all the oil from the sump...man, it was more like black petrol! approx 7 liters of fluid came out..i'm assuming i must have had 2.5 to 3 liters of petrol mixed in the sump!

Filled in new oil and replaced the oil filter...started up rough but after 10mins idling she's back up to mark.

Thanks URAS....

Btw, to those of you swapping injectors... make sure you check ALL o-rings are in and are not damaged.

you can use rubber grease on the o-rings to lube them, the injectors should pop straight in with ease...

Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
    • Pads for R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R non V-Spec (Sumitomo), R33 GTS-t and R34 GT-t are all interchangeable. R34 GT uses a 2x piston caliper, hence it didn't fit.
    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
×
×
  • Create New...